Hey guys I'm new to mud motors. Went out with a buddy in his boat and decided its what I wanted. I'm trying to not spend a lot of money so im converting my bass tracker over. It's a 1648 riveted aluminum hull. It's not the best choice but it was free bc I already had it and it's fun working on things. I plan on putting a 23-27 surface drive. Hope to find a used one.
Here it is when I started


And now after working on it






Plan is to put a floor in and keep it open. Paint green and Hydroturf inside. Boat will be used for shallow fishing and driving through Lilly pads and grass.

Check out my build here http://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=154073

Just skimmed through it. Looks good bud a lot of work and money put into it. I would love to do all aluminum floors but that gets expensive. Plan on just doing aluminum deck up front and one plywood floor thats open. Still deciding on turning the live wells into coolers and storage or taking them out. I've been researching and I'm pretty sold on the ******* 35hp. Hope when time comes I can find a used one lol.

My boat is off trailer right now so I can do trailer work, when that is finished I will be driving three hours to my uncles shop to rebuild transom and fix a couple revits.

Flipped. Doesn't look to bad. Has been in freshwater all it's life though.

Put a slick coating on bottom. That helps keep rivets from leaking and gettin abused on logs, etc..... frog spit, gator glide, I personally used Goop Coat It, cheaper and just as durable if you prep surface properly.

Yeh I was going to go with gator glide or steel flex

Guys do you think this transom is gonna be alright? I just bought a 27 Beavertail longtail. Just getting a little worried about this transom. If it will hold then good if not I'm just gonna go buy a cheap alumacraft hull

Going to the welder tomorrow to get rivet holes sealed. Then it's gator glide on bottom, deck and paint

Just got back from welder. Fixed the rivets, welded to live well holes shut, fixed transom and cut sheets for my deck all for $160.

Also just ordered paint and tan camo hydroturf

looks good so far!

New motor

Loving the new motor.

3 people and fishing gear:
21.2 deep water in wind

2 people and fishing gear:
23.5 in deep water in wind

Good speeds

Yeh I thought so. I still have some learning to do with where the prop should be in the water and I think I can get a little more.

Found a good deal on a minn Kota riptide. Had to make a mount Bc my boat had a lip on it, think it turned out pretty good.

What pattern is that turf?

Nevermind

Looks really good man espically for a budget build boat really good job

tan camo

thanks bud. It's been working great for me!

Good Job !!!

Damage yesterday. Problem is I don't think I can get it patched due to the fact there was some corrosion in that area and I think the weld will continue to burn through it.

Is the runner cracked/knife edged? If so, lift your flooring up and use a piece of aluminum angle for a backing to weld against.

If you're running in sandy terrain, it will wear out that thin gauge bottom. At the crimps, the aluminum is thinner than what bottom is spec'd out to be.

Can you put a back-up plate behind it? Where's that weld at?

It is right at the V where the hole came. The boat had some corrosion issues in the rear so it was a lot thinner back there. I think it happened when I beached up on some sand. Excuse my ignorance but what is a back up plate? I would love to just get this fixed and not have to buy a new boat.

And the runner is more of a hole, if I pressed down on it it cranks more and hole gets bigfer

Backup plate is just a backing to weld against...to keep you from burning through. Just take a piece of 1" x 1" x 1/8" (or 3/16") angle, lay it in the runner groove from the inside of the boat. From here, the welders can take over...

Just my thoughts...but, should he seal weld the angle to the bottom from the inside first? Then, try to butter up the outside and grind it to contour? Although, the runner groove may not be a 90 degree angle...so, maybe make your own with some 1" aluminum flat bar?? Just some ideas.

Worst case scenario, weld the angle or flat bar over the outside of the groove. It would then act as an impingement plate to take the abrasion and wear.

If it's so thin that beaching punches holes in it............well, that's a problem with a mud boat. What happens if you hit a log, stump, rock, sandy bottom, hard mud, etc??? Yea, you can patch it with some creative aluminum fabrication and welding, but you better find a welder who works for beer instead of shop rates.

You may be better off sealing it with some 3M 5200 as a temperary fix to keep the water out and just run it until you tear it up worse or sell it. At least you wouldn't be wasting much money.

Just my opinion.

I think the hole is to big for 5200. I may just take it to a welder, have it fixed and sell the dang thing

Fixed hole in my boat! New 1648 split seat alumacraft

That'll do it!

That 'a boy!

Yeh I like this set up a lot. Had to order a trolling motor bracket. And also need more gator glide.

What paint did you use to paint the first one?

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Duralux