Crews, I'm trying to get you the non-biased side by side stock numbers... I'm going to give a full report of my experiences... Hope Sheldon gets back to you he was finishing a PD motor yesterday and finishing the level 2 upgrades on a bunch today....

All I can say is that once I put the new carb on the low end and throttle response was noticed right off the bat! However everyone knows the linkage was sticking... Which screwed up my top end speed...I'm off to go fix my RPM and governor spring reset everything to 4250 and re-run my test w/ stock carb.

I ran 3100 almost hitting 26 MPH w/ modified carb but couldn't get it to open another 500 RPMS to where I was running at stock...

This is only 1 mph slower and yes the conditions were slightly different I think the water dropped a foot but I was not throwing up any mud so I didn't think my numbers were that far off yes moidified carb was ran after cold front past us before the weekend.

just put the pipes on no carb yet just posted pics here i changed the mounting a little. Posted everything under this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5006&start=40

Crews, look up James Mendoza, he posted in here earlier. His gain was 2 mph. Also try Chris Tyus. He has been on here awhile. His gain was 2 mph. Both were carbs.

I'd like to see some more quality control... my linkage was backwards when I got it easy fix but still not "bolt on" the burr in the carb should have been noticed and I should have been running fine since this past weekend...

BTW just got back from river... got the motor dialed in she runs 28 I'd like to hit 30. Just ordered the Marsh Mellow & hopefully this carb will perform like I'm hoping it will.

If others are getting 2 mph more that's worth it in my book. The bottom end with the carb was noticeable big time! A lot easier to get up on step... Carb will be here tomorrow hopefully I'll be able to run it Thursday as UPS gets here at like 8!

Hopefully the 3rd time is the charm.

True.

Ran mine today. With the same load as listed above ran 26.6 so almost 2 MPH. The bottom end is much better. Faster on step. The exhaust is loud, but I think Gecker has a fix for that. I was hoping for a little more, but I am very pleased. Went from 3800 RPMs to 4050 to 4100. So my prop maybe holding things back on top end.

Ben

Surprized me too. Like I said maybe the prop (which is brand new) is holding me back. Turning right at 4100 RPM. It seems to have plenty of power I think a higher pitch prop would be faster. Is that idea possible?

If you add pitch to a prop your rpm's will drop about 200-250 rpm's for every inch of pitch that you add.

Right, but if you have enough power to spin that prop you'll gain speed. I had a 25 johnson that I put a carb and fuel pump from a 35 and went from a 11 pitch prop and 26-27 MPH to a 13 pitch prop running 33 MPH. I would think the same would apply to these mud motors, but I am brand new to these and I'm trying to learn.

No I put the new prop on a couple weeks ago. Went from 20 MPH to 24 with the new prop. Old prop was worn down to about 11 inches best I could measure it.

Yes 4250 on trailer with new carb and exhaust. I did have to readjust gov. Went from 3800 RPM stock to 4100 RPM with Gecker.

I really think with the new stuff I'll be able to plane a load better. Hole shot is much faster than it was.

Did you get the adapter and high flow filter to go with it? You will need 4 spacers if you plan to use the stock bolts with it as they are not included. They are mounted to the rear of the rectangular plate w/stud that holds the stock filter and cover on and you could snap them off to use them. They are epoxied to the plate. Or you can get them at Lowes or similar place. Compared to the stock airbox your looking at about 100 more rpms. I went from 3970-4000 rpms on the water to 4100-4130 on the last couple runs and about a 1 mph increase in speed. RPMs set at 4350 on the trailer. Mate that up with around a 100 rpms for a better flowing exhaust (what I got from the Hopkins exhaust before it crapped out) should give you about 200+ rpms easily. Air in, air out.......

A little polishing of the carb and thinning of the choke/throttle shafts and hardware along with some intake work (a-la DB8) and you can bump it up for close to another 200 rpms according to him. By the way, the Gecker I received had stock choke and throttle shafts and hardware. There was no thinning or anything done to them as stated a Level-2 should have. You might check yours against stock like I did. Identical........

That could have me in the 4400 rpm range and I still have some to play with on my govenor and stock carb anyway. You only gonna be able to go so far before the threat of floating a valve. Those things without carb has you straddling the fence unless you change gears or repitch to bring RPMs down. So going high flow filter and exhaust with a little cleaning things up with your carb and intake should get you everything you can safely get without head work.

i'm interested to hear Gecker's reply.

Level 1-Core Replacement-Bored to maximum size using CNC Machining Centers, this level carb represents a larger over all bore size than a 42 Mikuni while remaining stock. This is a great add on package for someone wanting a good size gain. Fuel curve is set to your engine type and configuration. $130 Plus $100 Refundable Core Charge after inspection. Add $85 for new carb and no core.

Level 2-Core Replacement- Bored to the maximum size using CNC Machining Centers and fully machined with fully radiused venturi and air horn. Throttle and chokes shafts are cut to the minimum and carb body is fully polished for maximum air flow. This is the Mac Daddy Carb Blueprint for the best performance obtainable from a stock carb. Fuel curve is set to your engine type and configuration. $250 plus $100 Refundable Core Charge after inspection. Add $85 for new carb and no core.

The above was taken off Gecker's site... What are the throttle and chokes shafts "Cut" yall see this difference? I've seen 3 carbs side by side with my stock all look the same... What's the difference in the linkage / butterflies from Stage 1 & 2? Anyone point that out besides the shafts are "cut"

The differences for 1 thing are $70.

It seems that if you asked for Level 2 and the shafts are NOT cut, then you are either getting level 1 and charged for #2, or a partial #2. If you asked for and are paying for level 2, and the shafts are not trimmed down on both the butterfly choke and the throttle shaft, then you don't have a full level 2.

The issue seems to be if Level 2 is what you asked for - its not what you got.

They don't mill the linkage...None of them have been done that way. By doing that they came across a fuel issue they determined it wasn't being pulled correctly through the carb...

I talked to Sheldon there is a big difference b/t Level 1 & 2...

So don't worry if your linkage isn't milled down they don't do that they leave it stock.

If you have not had both carbs in your hand than how do you know the differance?Seems that if you go by what Sheldon says you go in circles?I know two people personaly that are dealing with him and to be quite honest he will never get my business.I do not care if he answers your calls or not just seems to be alot of BS with this guy.

These two people that I know are not on here posting but they lurk.I think that if you are looking to get gains out of a stock carb and intake get with deadbird8.Hell just opening up your intake and better exhaust will give you gains with a stock carb out of the box.

The Gecker level-2 carb is milled to the max but it is not a complete bore from one end to the other. Maybe thats not possible and have it still function. But comparing side by side there is a big difference. Now the milling appears to have taken place mainly on the choke end of the carb with blending done between it and the throttle end. I'm no carb FE but it seem to me that if you don't open up the throttle end and install larger throttle plates (they are stock) then the bore at that point remains the same. And the maximum amount of air that can pass that point at any given time will remain the same. Obviously removing the resticted airbox/filter helps. Blending and smoothing the carb and intake helps. But it seems that boring the throtte ports and installing larger plates would be the only way to truely open it up to the max. Like I said, maybe it not possible and it still run.

Too damn close to duckbird season to be fuking with your motors Sounds like there is some issues that need to be worked out on these carbs!Just my 2 cent!!

Well West I'm glad you are giving him a chance but at the same time alot of people are getting the run around from this guy.

Of all the people that I know personally and the MMT members who post here on a REGULAR basis not one of them has had anything good to say about the carb some because they saw no gains and others because they have not recieved the correct carb after over a month.A friend got the wrong carb 3 weeks ago and is still waiting,but another ordered the carb and other parts and recieved the other parts in a day but the carb is on its way

Exactly...

I got the right carb on first one. While I only saw about a 2 MPH gain there is a big gain in throttle response and hole shot. I did get both the carb and the exhaust. I'm very pleased with what I got for my 36 PD.

dats good to hear...