If your average trip exceeds about half an hour, I'd seriously consider a console or stick. Standing at that tiller for long runs can be fatiguing. If you set and pickup decoys from the boat, instead of walking, I'd get the cc. I don't have any first hand experience with a stick, but it seems it would be a hassle to get up and down from the seat on a stick rig to pick up decoys. If you don't have long runs, stay with a tiller. It eliminates extra rigging and weight and frees up space.

With regard to the winch, for the sake of weight and simplicity, I'd go with a single moveable mount and lose the built in winch. Buy a good winch and have your builder fabricate a dry secure place to store it.

Everyone has their personal preferences, but I've never found any use for grab handles and I'm glad I did not get any. My boat is so heavy that it can not be moved by hand, so why have the handles or the extra weight? In the same vein, I've never been a fan of a bunch of built in storage. If it is a multi-purpose boat, you may find the need to change the configuration of the storage, add coolers or live wells, or strip it bare for hauling gear to a blind build or camp. I opted for multiple moveable/removable boxes. For me this added versatility while also allowing me to lighten up the boat and clear out the deck when necessary.

If you plan on winching in open country, you may want to ask your builder to fabricate a mount to store a big anchor. It is damned irritating to have one banging around in a chop, and a winch is useless without something to pull against.

I've never understood the merits of a v-shaped rake or a hunt deck. There has been a great deal of discussion here about both and I would encourage you to read up. I concede that they make the boat look very sleek and attractive, but I'm not sold on the functionality.

It looks like it is going to be a multi-use family boat. With that in mind, and at the risk of bringing down a bunch of grief on myself (if I haven't already), I ask that you give USCG approved foam floatation serious consideration. I am guessing that it gets cold up there, so for what it is worth; it is better to be knee deep in freezing water than neck deep in it. Just give it some thought.

Lastly, in my book, modified motors are "da devil!" If you are small engine literate and enjoy tinkering, go ahead. However, if you have extreme swings in temperature where you hunt and would prefer not to occupy your thoughts with mix ratios and carry a zip lock bag for a choke, go EFI or stock.

Take your time and have fun with your build/purchase. Be sure to consult with your preferred builder and at least one other. They know what works and what doesn't. Most of these boats are built to last a lifetime. Getting it right the first time can save you a bunch of money and frustration.

Depends if you hunt from the boat or not. If you consistently make 15 mile runs or more, then I would have a console, no doubt about it.

Very good points. I seldom hunt from the boat (don't own a blind for it) and never wade next to it. One of my objectives for buying a mud boat was to never have to get out and walk to do anything but hide the boat and get into the blind. We also do a considerable amount of fishing and marsh bird hunting for which I prefer an open layout.

Take a trip and pick up your boat the money's saved will pay for you're trip. If you hunt in the cold a lot you will need a heated space to put the boat in.one thing about the cat walks if you hunt in -0 weather as soon as water hits the boat it will freeze you will not be able to use the cat walks at all. The dog should work off of the hunt deck or your boat gets covered real quick with ice. It's nothing to come home and have 2" of ice on parts of the boat. The hydro turf does not help with the water freezing on it. Don't get carpet on the trailer bunks,rollers or plastic. Buy any extra parts you may need to get. Trim switch extra belt ect. It can take a long time to get parts shipped and duck season is real short. Hope this helps. I am on my 4th season with a mud boat and motor and love it.

First I want to thank everyone for all their input, it means a lot when one is so limited on knowledge of these rigs. I will first say that I my main goal of this boat is to duck hunt from, second is to fish from with the kids and possible pull them on a tube of some sort. We have very few lakes around here that you can actually "enjoyable boat" on most are pot hole, slues and dirty ass muddy bottom water holes.

None of my runs will be over 30 mins one way to get to where I will be going, most of my runs are short and will be either pulled up inside the primary cover (edge) of the lake or because of the depths of the lake we can push out to almost like a second edge of cover if that makes sense. There are lots of little weed patches and tiny floating bog islands that are just off that 200 yard range. You know when you are sitting there thinking damn I wish we had set up on the outer edge due to wind shift.

Petrel I appreciate all your input and weather I agree with it or not is not of value, the value is that you contributed to what I was asking for and thank you. I will never get up set over the internet lol, fighting on the net is like the special olympics...everyone wins.

That being said to address so of your topics, I have been thinking and even though it will not be "neat" I have decided to go with a removable winch, I think I will still have the 2" receiver some how at the bow of the boat as well as other locations to mount the winch in the rear or sides if needed. I just know I will be doing a lot of forward winching. As for a good winch I was looking at a warn XT30 or the XT45 maybe over kill, I was the only guy when we were big into quading that had 3500lb winch and I was the only guy that never had one lick of trouble.

Grab handles for me would be useful for tie downs, maybe repositioning the boat if I am out of it, the kids when in it. V rake for me would be for cutting thru 8 ft cat tails and as well as helping break ice almost a no brainer for my use, same goes for the hunt deck I need it for the dog and as a couple people commented the design may look sleek but i am doing 2 things, 1) not only losing flotation but 2) losing dog space, I will be squaring it back and making that change...thanks.

As for the flotation I am not sure I will have to call the CCG association most of our boats up here come with none at all, look at the lunds, and john boats we get nothing. I am not saying that is a bad idea I like the fact that if I have my kids or friends in the boat it is very safe I just do not know much about it. More research needed, thanks.

MNgunner thanks for the lay out shots, I like the face I can see how your box contorts to the side of your boat (wider at the top and taking up less floor space) that is want I was going for but I wanted them higher to use the tops as catwalks as well. Then the good old buddy from Ontario chimed in and reminded me by October ice will be everywhere. This is going to be a tough change for me I really like the idea of the boxes and catwalks coming together to act as a dual purpose. I know I said 18 or 19x54 I am now thinking 60. 6 Inches isn't much but I bet it makes a difference to some female boaters LOL.

Thanks for everything I am going back into CAD again LOL
Phil

Your builder can fabricate a removable winch mount that will fit and operate from any spud pole hole. You won't need 2" receivers welded into the boat, unless you want them for something else.

So long as you aren't hunting any flooded timber, there is little downside to the added width, yet it will certainly contribute to added stability.

Lund lists foam floatation as one of the things that makes them better: http://www.lundboats.com/component/cont ... ats-better

What u talking about there Willis it's fun fighting on the Internet

I think the pointed bow on the front of the boat has a very big purpose other than just looks especially in very heavy timber it helps steer through the trees but also a motor with the quick option of reverse helps in this case to . I definitely disagree with the way u made the transitions of the angle of the sides narrowing into the transom I didn't specify why but my reasoning was the same as frogs I think it would cause the rear of the boat to draft more water and would want to squat more considering that's where most of the weight will be at


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To elaborate further, the additional draft in the stern and the inherent lack of torque of the low horse power lawn mower motor will lend to harder, slower planing( which will make planing impossible in some shallow water conditions) and possible porpoising ( due to lack of surface area). You would probably be adding trim tabs to compensate for the lack of said surface area. Thus adding additional weight of the hydronic motor. therefore you will bedrawing more power from your batteries and then risking the possibility of tearing one of in a uncontrolled sideways slide!... In other words.... I wouldn't Fuken do it!!!...

Sometimes I drink whiskey!,...

Yea I did appreciate that lol that sob mayhem is a goofy bastard


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Yea I did appreciate that lol that sob mayhem is a goofy bastard


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Phil just come to TX in February like Missile said earlier ... Tons of boats out and numerous to look at. .. SETX mud run is around the corner

So after messing around with the new CAD program I have had for 3 whole days this is what I came up with I know it is not totally done and I am not going to explain everything I am a tad drunk and a bit tired but let me know what you think. If I had a plotter printer it is to scale 1:16 but I have shitty Microsoft software and HP printers LOL

I would put some seat bases on the floor also. You can put 3-4 down one side of the floor and use them as seats for hunting out of the boat with a blind on it.

I can move / extend the grab bars no problem, the hunt deck is extended 54 inches for the forward permenant gas tank. I do not want seat bases I am going with pedistal seats so I can add or remove. As needed on the day of the trip

I have two six gallon tanks for that reason I can only go as far one way as I know I can make it home on the other and they are in front of boat under extended deck easy to get too


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No most of the time u burn more fuel going out by trying new places and getting motor in a bind and having to work it harder but when u run out u hook up other tank and go straight in and don't stop for nobody just wave and keep rolling


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Need to re draw most points are only 20" this one is scaled out at 42" that will give me more floor space, sweet. On the CAD again today.

Thanks
Phil

Well I have some pretty sad/bad news that I got today. Well lets see if I can get this right, so hear is the skinny after seeing the surgeon today I have been having neck problems for a few months now and I finally got an answer. I have a herniated cervical disc between C5 and C6. It is at the point now where intervention needs to take place soon the operation for a herniated cervical disc is called an anterior cervical discectomy and fusion (ACDF). Pretty much this http://neurosurgery.ufl.edu/patient-car ... ated-disc/ of I could go to the States to some clinic for a steroid shot for $20,000 that may or may not work if they would take me.

Bad new is Dfou I will not be getting a boat built this spring from you, I am not sure if any of you knew exactly who I had planned to build my boat but it was Daniel. Thru all my questions and searching he was a great help, never once discouraging even possibly knowing the fact I may not have even bough a boat at all.

I will say this customer service for me even though I was not a customer was excellent, from seeing his work on here alone made up my mind that he was the builder for the job. I wish I could have got to have done a build with you but I am thinking that money will be a bit tighter and even if I did get it I doubt I would be able to take the pounding this season.

I will have a boat built by Dfou! It will just have to go on hold.

Thank you everyone for all you have contributed
Phil

Sorry to hear that bud


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Word of advise don't do the injections in your neck just get the surgery and be done. My surgeon in Houston about shit when he seen my medical records from when they made me do the neck injections.

First injection seemed to work. Second injection hurt like hell and had severe headaches for weeks. Third one well couldn't lift my right arm for two weeks and felt like they forgot to pull the needle out of my neck. Don't mean to scare you but do some serious research on neck injections.

Thanks I was saving that 20g's for the boat anyway

Injections did nothing for my neck. I had to get the surgery. Two discs removed and 3 vertebrae fused together... Best decision I ever made. As soon as I opened my eyes in the recovery room I could feel the difference. RELIEF

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Well it's been almost 6 months, I am back to work full time and back to dreaming about my mud boat. I had the surgery , spent 8-10 weeks in a neck collar another 3 or so off work but I am back in full force and will be ready for duck season. I have done lots of reading and looking since then and have a good idea of what I want. Big, tall sides and storage with a nice sized deck. I would think 19x54. I have the wife talked into taking a road trip with the kids for 3 weeks to go get the boat or letting me and a buddy take off and do a marathon for a week. Any way I slice it it will be one long ass drive.

1) Just a couple of questions about some things I have been thinking of, is a center console boat pretty decent to hunt out of, I know it would be better for fishing and just going for a cruse with the kids and I see that most of the CC are running duals. Save 3k on mods and run duals??? or would this just be a pain in the ass boat to run hunting? I just run big open water and the possibility of big rivers not much in the way of trees or stumps. There are some skinny places that would be a no go with this type of boat for sure.

2) can you run duals as a tiller set up or are they all CC?

Thanks
Phil