After 5 years the bolts are frozen solid in my transom bracket. I cut the bolts to get them off the transom.

However now I can't get the bolt head out of transom bracket.



I was told to drill new holes. Anything special to this? I'm going to have to go through the bracket and transom on the boat.

Not much to it. Get a new bit and take your time to drill them straight. You can use some cutting fluid too.

Get a short bit and a long one. Use the short one to go as deep as it can. When the hole is too deep and you feel like you're doing no good, is time for the big boy. This will help keep it straight.

Cutting fluid? So don't use wd40

Wd will burn.

Cutting fluid has water in it to lube and keep cool


You can also use dawn fish soap in water. Just drill slow

You don't have to use it but it would help. Here is one of many that will work. It helps to keep your bits sharp. Go to your hardware store and ask for cutting/threading/tapping fluid.

http://www.grainger.com/product/CRC-Cut ... s_pp=false

Make sure to center punch the bolt.

They said leave bolt in there and drill new holes

Thanks

Brooks were like that and took 3 people and tall hoist.

One person to hold the motor in the air, one on air impact and one on side where bolts were cut off with a big hammer and punch that will go all the way through.

Hitting the Punch against the bolt with hammer while using impact until it comes out.

try heating the bolt till its cherry red than hit it with a punch.
that IMOP is last resort.

Tap magic is a good cutting fluid.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw ... extractors

What about these? I've removed some pretty Nast nuts/bolts with these they bite hard enough that they won't slip even with a 3' cheater bar.

Its a shame your drilling these bolts in a aluminium transom. It it was steel I've got a nice magdrill that would help.

Well I honestly don't want to drill anymore holes through my transom... I already have 2 for the Gator-Tail and 4 for the Outboard... Now if I go and drill new holes that's 8 total I'll have to deal with.

More importantly... I need to be able to drain the transom area.

Are those extractors pretty good? I still have the bolt heads just cant get them to budge. I'd rather get the bolts out and then put new ones in with never seize.

Center punch the broken bolts and drill.. take your time! Start with a small bit and drill all the way threw, work your way up with the bit size even if your off center a bit you should be able to knock out the half moon piece of bolt that will be left!


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Thanks fellas.

If you're going to drill the bolts make sure 2-3 bits of each size. Cutting fluid is a must if you drill the SS bolts.

On another note have you tried soaking with sone type of penetrate oil and an impact gun.

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Pretty good info here, not sure if it'll help but... http://www.leeroysramblings.com/removin ... _bolts.htm

I'm going to have to try his 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone as a penetrating oil sometime...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401212100.336761.jpg

Who getting ready to pull a clutch off?

Do you have access to a wire feed welder? My grandpa taught me to weld another piece of metal or bolt onto the bolt and turn it out with a vise grips. More often than not the heat from the weld would burn out whatever was sticking and the thermal difference between materials will loosen the stuck bolt. We did a few broken exhaust studs this way which were actually only finger tight after a quick weld. You can smear a little nozzle dip around the transom or even electrical tape for quick spot welds to keep from arcing into the aluminum if you're concerned about accuracy and splatter.

The ATF and acetone is good stuff. I keep a bottle of it mixed up in the shop

And yes the extractors are that good. But they should only be used if the head or nut is rusted or rounded off. if u can't get a good bite on them with a 6 point socket then use the extractor.

I would first soak in ATF/acetone. Then hit it forward and reverse with impact while spraying with penetrant concoction. Then start applying heat while cooling off with the lubricant concoction. U can also melt beeswax into the threads that will provide addition lubrication (haven't used this method but know folks that have used it with success). Using a cheater bar will give u more torque than an impact gun but there's something to be said for the hammering action of the impact gun. Te goal is to provide enough pressure that u don't break the bolt. If this doesn't work then welding, drilling, etc. (more drastic measures) can be used. if u end up drilling, I would try using a screw extractor (easy out) rather than drilling the screw out all the way to the threads. This will save u from possibly using a helicoil if u can't clean the threads up enough with a tap (in the event u accidentally damage the internal threads with the bigger drill bits)