This thread will hopefully serve as an installation guide for installing the Gecker carb also my gains before and after on my 100% stock Gator-Tail GTR 35 no mods or exhaust. All test were done with the same weight and fuel in the boat for both tests.

You can always go read through the 8+ page thread and make comments or remarks over there... So keep replies and posts on topic. Thanks!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4377

Stock Setup:

RPM out of water: 4250
Top Speed: 28 MPH (deep water)
RPM @ Top Speed: ~3900

Gecker Stage II:

RPM out of water: 4250
Top Speed: 29.5 MPH (deep water)
RPM @ Top Speed: ~3890

Right of the bat I noticed an increased throttle response. The bottom end has improved and I can get up on step almost twice as fast as before.

With a load I am still able to get up on load quickly as I mentioned the bottom end and throttle response is great!

Top end, hey I reached 30 MPH (granted with a wind behind me) but hey, first time ever since I've owned the motor that she broke into the thirties.

Gains that I've seen from other posts and reviews is around 1-2 MPH gain.

I am running a stock setup so hopefully adding a high flow filter and after market exhaust will increase the engines ability to breath.


WAS IT WORTH IT??

HELL NO! A PITA waiting on all the parts oh it will be here this day... that day no tracking numbers provided they bill credit card without my consent. I have 4 carbs that are sitting in my garage all worthless! I'm back to running the stock carb... Don't let yourself get GECKER'D!

Get a mikuni and be done!

Below is how to remove & replace a stock carb with the Gecker one but trust me I did this 6 times it was getting VERY OLD!

There is nothing "bolt-on" & go about this carb I've had nothing but issues!


Installation of Carb

Tools needed:

Needle nose pliers
Phillips head screw driver
10 MM socket
1/2" socket


Start by removing the air filter cover, black retaining screw, the filter itself and set aside.

Remove the four (4) 10MM bolts

Remove the three (3) 1/2 bolts

For Gator-Tail guys, you don't have to remove all four of those 1/2" bolts... only 3 hold the aluminum intake "pan" (the thing that the filter sits on) to the engine.



Once you remove the pan you'll be down to the carb and all the linkage locate your choke linkage. Pull the choke out (front of engine) and remove the clip and remove the choke linkage from the rear where it connects by the exhaust.



Remove the linkage from the choke end of the carb meaning where it conncets to the carb itself. You can easily push up the "clip" and pull the linkage out of the carb's eyes.



Remove the one (1) 1/2" bolt which holds the intake bend & carb assembly it bolts in between the governor linkage and intake bend. There's a tab that comes up from under the carb and intake bend that a bolt goes into. The bolt goes into the carb and intake assembly and helps support the whole thing. Remove this one bolt.

Now your ready to remove the (4) 10MM bolts holding the 90 degree intake bend and carb together to the top of the engine. Back them out and use your hand to free them up (note you won't be able to remove them completely until you pull the whole assembly out)

Use needle nose pliers to help you slide the fuel line off (use them to pinch the clamp, others may have different style hose clamps)



At this time the only thing that should be hooked up is the throttle linkage.

Very carefully start pulling the carb and intake assembly out and towards you. You'll have to rotate the carb and intake slightly in order to remove the last linkage (the throttle) that goes into the eye on the carb, there is also a small spring remove that first before starting this step.

The 90 degree intake bend and carb should slide apart now, the 4 bolts you can set aside be careful the carb can hold gas!!

Check and inspect the gaskets, most can be reused...



Pop in new carb, before doing this inspect that all the linkage is identical and wasn't put on backwards or anything... (This can happen) If it was just remove the butterflies with phillips head adjust linkage and put the butterflies back on quick fix.

Put the 4 bolts back into the 90 degree bend, inspect gasket between intake and carb slide new carb onto bolts (be sure gasket is installed)

Before doing anything hook back up the throttle linkage and spring then slide carb into its space. Be sure all the gaskets are good and tighten back up the (4) 10 mm bolts and 1/2 " bolt that hold the assembly to the motor. Tighten all bolts

Hook back up the choke linkage on the carb. You'll have to pull the choke linkage (the actual spot where the linkage hooked into earlier) by the governor out and away towards the front of the motor in order to put the linkage back in the eye.

Hook back up fuel line

Reinstall air filter pan (make sure gasket is there) when doing this leave all bolts lose until you have them started otherwise the pan will move on you and you'll have to back them all out a little

Put the air filter back on...and your done. Hope this helps people and if you have any questions feel free to let me know.

bout how long did it take you from start to finish ??

First time 45 minutes... I can now do it in about 15 minutes

Can wait to order mine I'm glad to hear a good review should be ordering the carb intake and exhaust in the next couple of weeks

good review.
its a great feeling to make the big boats break 30 mph.

Not only break the 30 mph barrier - but jumped up fast too....


WestEndAngler - took me up on an offer to tag along yesterday - having ridden
side by side with several 18x60 GDSD's - I can say that his mid - range
accelleration was very impressive....

From 2 mph to 20 mph - his heavier 18x60 jumped a 1/2 to 3/4 boat
length ahead of my lighter rig....

It will be interesting to see if further tinkering finds more power from the
new Gecker carb....

Good review and very imformative post!

Finally a real review!

X2. thanks for the review.

Thanks for the review and the HOW to man. We could definately benefit more TECH in ths section.

DB "Good review, I am surprised you didn't get any RPM gain. Not sure where the new power is coming from- more efficient?"



Triming down - putting a bit more blade in the water - maybe ?

The power is noticeable as I mentioned in the low end. The top end has produced what I was wanting and/or expected it to.

I have not touched the enrichment screws, I still have stock exhaust and still have the foam protector around the stock filter! I'm sure my allowing the motor to breath easier I will achieve even higher RPM's

Also dialing in the governor and messing with my spring and settings should allow me to turn closer to 4000 RPM.

west end, the format for your review is really nice. everyone should use it as a guideline. well done.

on a side note, im glad you are happy with ur new carb

Thanks!

Welcome to the 30 MPH club

Very nice review.. Pull the stock filter and install a K&N.. Then you give us a comparison..

Long time coming. I know you are relieved and happy with the carb. Congratulations again.

Glad to see you got her going,got a question.I know that you are getting an exhaust but do you plan on getting the intake? This will also help you out as far as performance.

I plan on adding the exhaust, putting a K&N filter in there (removing the pre-filter) and I'll more than likely do the intake just to increase air flow and boost performance.

Replaced stock exhaust with Marsh Mellow exhaust. I haven't been able to test it with just myself in the boat yet. While under load w/ 3 guys & 2 dogs full gear, gas etc, I was running 25MPH in deep water With that load previously I would have been somewhere around 23 MPH I was thrilled with this improvement while loaded down. (Still running stock filter & pre-filter foam thingy) We'll see when I put K&N in.

I was laughing last night too... I have a glorified trot line weight now

Where did you get the jets?