I just hit the 5 hour mark on my GTR35 and the manual says it's time to change the oil. What motor oil are you GT guys running.

I can't,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,don't have the energy.



Pennzoil 10w-30

NOW THAT'S THINKING WITH YER DIPSTICK JIMMY!!!!!!!!!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nel4qVTOgg

mees bosse puts send tecke its inn hiss

Here we go again.

MB oil. The best stuff on the shelf. Go to a parts store and ask for it.
I think somebody has a picture of it. I hear it gives you 3 extra horses.

Royal Purple 5w 30 synthetic

RP here. I mean at $8.00 + a quart it has to be good!

Everything else is just a cheap imitation

Ask DDM what he runs in his rig............I bet GT has a bad as supper dupper blend they run to get 44+mph and last a liftime

I called GT..They said to run any synthetic 10W-30. So I'll be using Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic.

Don't run the synthetic 'til you have put about 50 hours on dat ting.

GT told me to start running synthetic after 5 hours. Why do you say 50 hours.

Need's time to break in.

You can do what you want to do, personally I think it's "mine over matter." It ain't mine so it don't matter. Why? you ask. Let me ask you a question. Why do you want to use synthetic? I bet it is because it has better lubricity than conventional oil. If it has better lubricity you won't seat everything like it should be during the break-in. Most manufacturers recommended a break-in of 50 hours before switching to synthetic. However, with that said, do what you want. Hope I don't sound harsh but thats the simple truth.

Try this link http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publicat ... P268-Q.pdf

Here's why I ask....Owners manuel doesn't say anything about a break in period and they recommend synthetic 5w-30. GT says synthetic 10w-30 after 5 hour break in. Wanted to see what GT guys on here had to say about what they were using.
I'll probably keep putting regular 10w-30 in for while.

My .02¢ on oils. We use synthetic on all our air cooled engines, ONLY AFTER the initial break-in period. {Had a lot of FAA aircraft & power-plant experience}.
Break-ins' are a shorter time period now (2009) cause new factory machining does much-much closer tolerances on new model engine internals, and alloys on parts like rings/valves are improved. Biggest improvement is in the oil seals to keep synth' from leaking out. Example: On 25HP Kohler tractor engines, its 8 hours medium to rough service for break-in , then my local dealers will extend the warranty IF you use synthetics BUT you MUST CHANGE THE FILTER often!!

Look, the oil will last a long time (synth or dino), but if it gets sludge from moisture , or acids from sulfurous bad gas, or metal bits from parts wear.... well change the damn filter to cure those ills. The oil will not filter itself, and 8-10 hours oil/filter change after initial break in for any MM engine could be a good safe bet.

Why such a long time for manufacturers (like Briggs & Stratton) to actually recommend synthetics?? Because a small air-cooled engine generally "uses up" more synthetic oil than regular Dino oil and the average Joe Suburban guy doesn't check his fricken' oil every time he runs the motor. Guys were toasting motors cause they weren't checking the dipstick enough during the running season when the oil level gradually ran low.

Use whatever you want, but synthetics are great IF you change the filter frequently. No oil will get particles out, that's the filters job. I firmly believe that synthetics give a better cold start and hold up better at high temps in newer air-cooled engines (run temp gauge and see fer ya self). Check the FREAKIN" dipstick a lot though!!

On older motors, synthetics will leak out any way they can, they are too expensive and don't really give much performance per cost. On old motors its like feeding caviar to a goat.

I ran anything in mine.When it got modded Hoyt suggested synthetic after a break in period.I figured why not I just dropped a load of money in it whats another few bucks.