I plan on adding a cooler to my motor and am trying to decide which one to go with. I saw most are goin with the standard trans cooler but I was lookin at the Hayden site and found the Rapid Cool. It's made like the factory cooler. The smallest one is the same cubic inch as the ones most of ya'll recommended. I like the rugged design and for a few dollars more I don't mind paying a little extra. Summit has it for $45.95. It also states its 33% more efficient than the tube and fin design. What's ya'll opinion? Think it'll cool better?

http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/Hayden ... oolers.pdf

Yeah thats what I would go with. The plate and fin type would be the best bet.

Read the Important notes section:

DO NOT use transmission oil cooler for engine oil applications. Engine damage may result due to flow restrictions.

ATF is thinner than engine oil and will flow better faster in smaller tubes. I am not sure how the oiling system works on a briggs Big block, but there is a chance that cooloer may have too small piping and then you could have more problems than you want to deal with.

With all the talk of goin with additional oil coolers, I think some type of mechaincial oil Temp gauge should be in there too.


Here is some ingo I googled from a Volkswagon site.

What is a "correct" temperature?
As I had mentioned earlier, since most gauges are not very good, readings may not accurately reflect the true temperature. Besides, there are many "true" temperatures, depending on where it is measured: right after exiting the oil cooler, under the oil screen, above the oil screen, etc. Ideally we should measure the temperature at the first location, as is done on the Porsche 911, but that is difficult to do on the VW engine. After listening to years of discussions on the bus lists, I can perhaps attempt to offer an answer that, I think, reflects list members' average opinions. These reading are typically made in the oil sump. (Readings reported on the Porsche list are typically lower, reflecting the fact that they're measured after the oil cooler.)

Below 180 F is too cool; is the thermostat still there?

180-210: peachy.

210-250: you can probably live with it; many busses w/ type4 engines get that hot under load in the summer. (For a beetle, I'd be concerned, though.)

250-280: something is wrong and must soon be fixed; however, the viscosity of a good synthetic oil should still be fine. If it's after dark and I'm in East St. Louis, I keep on driving.

Above 280 F: better stop; unless the oil pressure light is on (in which case you must shut the engine off immediately!), let the engine run. Glen Buhlman recommends that it not be left idling, but that revving it will allow the fan to do a better job of cooling the engine.

The plate and fin type is what comes from the factory so I don't know why this one would be any different. And the note is for none of the trans cooler to be used as oil coolers right? I can't pull the page up right now. Another thing, has anybody took a reading to see the temp difference of the jugs after putting a cooler over the flywheel? I know the oil temp is lower but was wondering how much difference it made on the jugs as it is pulling much hotter air.

Do you have a pic you can post?