Got to the dock this morning to find my sunk boat and submerged 2013 modded 35 hp Gatortail. Had to have happened prior evening when a major squall came thru. Pulled it out and am starting to wash down, drain carb, change oil, plugs, spray down with Wd, and anything else I can think of. Am particularly concerned about wires, control box, and other electrical components, and welcoming ALL :cry: suggestions on what else I can do to minimize these problems. Sat in brackish water (2 percent sea strength) for about 10 hours before I found it.

Open up everything exposing wires and shit and dry em out with a blow drier. Then let it sit for a day. Ad long as you don't put power to anything while it's wet I bet you'll be okay

It's simple. get a mud motor. shoot ducks in the face.

If you energize any of that copper while it has salt water on it you will have problems. Definitely dry it completely and corrosion spray/salt away everything.

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Wondering about the black control box on the tiller handle. Assuming it is a sealed system, wondering whether I should open it up? Cant raise the Gator crew on Saturday.

The control is sealed but check it for water just incase


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Heat gun (carefully) will dry out electrical components like relays etc. pull all your fuses and dry out the fuse holders, disconnect the battery so no power is applied anywhere. Dry, clean, and coat everything with dielectric grease when reassembling. Should minimize issues when you do start to power everything back up.

Fuel system: drain gas, slosh some rubbing alcohol around in the empty tank to get rid of water allow it to air dry before refilling, flush lines thoroughly, replace all filters, drain bowl on carb. Run fresh non-ethanol gas back thru it when you put it back in service.

Engine: remove valve covers, spark plugs, drain oil, allow to sit in the sun to dry, fresh plugs and oil change and you should be good to go, give the engine a thorough coating of corrosion X or WD40.

Thanks. That's the detail I was looking for.

After spark plug removal put ATF in cylinders and roll motor over by hand
to prevent ring sieze and cylinder rusting - motor oil fouls the plugs later
and ATF does not....

Keep 'em coming, fellas.

You can get it running no problem. But be ready to be fighting electrical problems sooner rather than later.

Figure the electrical problems will begin to surface fairly soon, hoping they will wait till after the season, then will rewire and replace . Keeping my fingers crossed.

After you have run it, I would also immediately drain the oil again, to make sure you got all the water out..

Put all electrical parts in a 5 gallon bucket and fill it with rice…

Tiny Asians wil emerge from the rice at night and repair your electronics.

Its a Briggs, not a Kawasaki. Got it running after following suggestions, replaced starter and kill switch, plan on putting it through its paces within poling distance of the dock tomorrow. Thanks again for all the advice.