Pretty soon I'll be pulling my PD and starting the swap. I gathered the Stainless tubing for the muffler build but have one question so I don't screw up. No sense reinventing the wheel as a few have done this. I have my own idea on leaving exhaust from the 4" can but need to know the following as I haven't set the engine yet and want to keep busy before the pull.

How far down did you drop before turning 90* into the can?
Also after the 90* ell how far did you run out to hit the can?

I realize the head flanges are about 1/2" different in height because of the V-Twin engine.
As usual I thank all for their input and pics will be posted.
Old Wayne

I didn't use a tape. Don't worry, it's true....Or close.

I built mine on the motors though so you can line it up and let it fall where you want it. The last one I made, I built with a block sitting on the work bench and it sits a little close to the clutch housing when it's back on the frame. It comes pretty much straight down out of the block though. I just made a heat shield and so far so good with that. The others I've made, I used a 45's out of the heads and just cut it where it felt right.

I build 'em on the engine and kinda just "wing it" so I'll say that I've found that if you can splay the headers and keep 'em fairly short you'll have less trouble with vibration cracking. There are a set of bolt holes on the heads that I've incorporated into bracing but some other guys have braced back to the engine base plate which seems to be a good idea. Some of the wild designs have run great but they're a lot of trouble to build. This thing below may be ugly but it's been Bomb Proof!

Thanks Gents, Since I have the engine on a wire milk crate with plywood on top I will be able to use that as a measuring point. Tomorrow should be the last run on the Briggs. Bug, I like your support braces. I thought about the frame mount but being on part of the engine it's self makes sense.

This is my old briggs, but did the same as my kawi
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You'll also notice that there is a plate just sitting on there between the 4" and the frame. I also welded this on the 4" and bolted it to the frame. I had to drill two holes in the frame so that it could be used as a support plate.
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Did this because the first I built for the briggs broke because all the weight was supported only by the flanges. This was after 1 run.
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