x - man i looked back at my posts i forgot to say i set my valves hot. also did a search here and at other sites and seen adjustments from .002 to .014. muddybuddys site says .010. so as you can see this is a wide varience in valve settings. i do know one thing tho if you are not hearing a little valve train noise with solid lifters. you might be soon looking thru a window. valve adjustment is just the opposite of how you like your women. too tight is bad - loose is ok.

My take on it is since you upgeaded your cam, you no longer have the compression release on the lobe. I noticed a little more cranking effort since my cam swap. It has never presented an issue to me.

i guess sometimes i go to the next level on some issues. but the main reason many of you buy preformance parts is to see a result. cams heads exhaust etc etc.these bolt on parts do just that. but when i see posts on porting and the response is mill end cutters. go to lowes get a dremel tool and have at it. i just go you can not unlock hp #'s with out a flow bench. i know this from my yrs. in the carting and jr dragster field. i've seen alum. rods from a well known supplier that were 22 gram diff. not good. how many of you have had your crank ck'd for balance when you do your mods. briggs built these motors for the industrial markets running 3600 governed rpm. flow bench work- balancing rods -cranks doesn't cost a arm and a leg to do. but all these mods will give you a bad azz very reliable running motor. as to the post on the guides have you seen the the end result of not having them running a high lift long duration cam not pretty.any misinstalled part can have a terrible end result. these guides will with a little mach. time are going to take care of push rod walking.and will also take care of the rocker arm pivot bolt problem. and the rocker stud girdle breaking problem. sorry about the long post i just hate seeing people spending money on parts and for a little more money they can take that part to the next level.

My first stage 3 had 365 pounds of compression lol!! We had to go to stock heads but the starter did crank it just had to hit it a couple times lol

I understand the concept. Want to eliminate anything that will cause turbulence...right angles, casting ridges, etc. My first impression is that a flow bench would only tell you that you've gone too far. How do you know when to stop grinding away?

Didn't you have GT do your headwork? Did you just have them decked or did you have them ported/polished? You don't think whoever they used put em on a flow bench?

I see.

Heads after larger seats were installed. (No port work)
050.jpg


After Cody's A.K.A. 50hptiller port work

Black Magic Porting 001.jpg

Black Magic Porting 002.jpg


There's an art to porting cylinder heads. Cody understands what it takes to make HP and has the skills to make it happen. He did a excellent job with my port work and was a big help during the motor mods.

More pics after port work

Black Magic Porting 003.jpg

Black Magic Porting 004.jpg

Black Magic Porting 005.jpg

Intake adapter after port work

Intake%20adapter.jpg

Compare to my decked heads;

My heads.jpg

50 hp. i think that we can agree that a flow bench will get the most out of head work. if you have a flow machine why not use it. do you need one to port heads no. will you get the most out of the heads yes. my orginanal post on porting heads saying that some people shouldn't port heads stands true. i've seen the pics on this site and others. most people dont know what a bowl pocket or port floors. port roofs. back walls are.they don't know what wet and dry air means.they just go in and inlarge everything they can. large ports move more air and fuel but sacrifice low rpm torque.its shape not the shine that makes hp.shine is no nothing more than a marketing ploy you need to know were to put the air. and if they don't know this. than all they should do is port match. and or a basic cleaning of the port walls and bowls.

I hadn't seen anyone on here attempt to do the port and polish on the heads themselves. There's been some people screw with the intakes, but hadn't seen any heads. I'm assuming the IM heads or EVT heads are put on a flow bench, is that right? The guy who did the work on my kohler def had a flow bench. I did not know you could do the same with the intake, but I assumed anyone doing professional port work on the heads was using a flow bench.

CB. question # 1 cant speak for evt. but i.m they make a vague attempt at port matching. if you buy these heads and use after market exhaust you should ck your port matching on the intake and exhaust with your gaskets installed. can you flow intakes sure. you can even flow carbs and air cleaners. but i'am not even going go there. i'am not a sponser on this site and will not respond to any p.m's but there are co's out there that can put in the bigger valves and seats and give you a very good port job for not much more than what some of these places are asking for their heads. it is a exchange of your rebuidable heads for theirs. hope this helped you.

Dguidry, If you sent them your heads to get decked thats what you got. I honestly doubt briggs has diff configuration heads on a High production motor. Your gain you feel is a little boosted compression, and Valves that SEAL. STOCK heads SUCK.

How much should you expect to pay for a good port and polish?

Sent from my SCH-I400

Then what do you charge Im probably getting a set of 30hp heads for my 27. Doubt ill get any decking done but planning on p&p.

Sent from my SCH-I400

Solved my starting issue. Tightened my battery terminal nuts. Starts fine now.

Cody is dead on the money about the flow bench they can be usefull but and not ness at all.
One question for you cody is do you leave the guides intact? I have been shapeing them up some and havent bad any break yet. Also have you tried anything with the squish area? Not trying to show everyone your secrets. I just know what we do and am curious about your work.

And democrat the 18 briggs head is a closed chamber the 23 is an open.

Robert does the same type of port work that you see on 50's. He has a flow bench so when we started back in 2007 we put many a head on there to figure what we should or should not do. The ports matched the intake and exhaust. We took the valve guide out of the port 50 leaves some in. Did it make that big of a difference, maybe on a dyno but not on the water. I have ran every possible combination you can think of and when it comes down to it, head work, carb, cam and exhaust is you best bang for your buck and the most durable you will get. Besides the generac I had the best motor I ran was a 31 briggs that had the sleeves punched out and generac flat tops put in. Had the rods built to give me 0 deck height, rotating assembly balanced, cam slightly bigger than the 493f, head work, evt intake, 42 hsr, evt exhaust and 30 degrees of timing. Short stroke big bore motor. Turned 5400 with ease and was a beast out of the hole. This was the motor on the 1854 GTB that ran 40 mph and ran 35 mph with 6 peeps in the boat. I know everyone likes the 35 but that 31 stroke is a smoother and faster accelerating motor imho. Had better throttle response too. Tried the same thing with the Genny but the short rod and poor exhaust port design made it a beast up til 4800 rpms. We flow tested them both and the generac head flowed better on the intake side but the briggs would flow better on exhaust.

Static. Smooth on the 35 and 31 but the 31 was smoother.