anyone know of a performance parts supplier for this motor?

welcome to the world of far and few Honda mod's

The only two mod I am doing and highly suggest right now is head work and exhaust.
Port polish and shaved


there are other's out there
http://golf-carts.buggiesunlimited.com/ ... da&x=0&y=0

Idk if I would run the advanced timing key personally.
I am thinking about the intake setup though

Hit up Robert and Mike at EVT. Before I had my GDSD I owned a honda longtail. They made that thing fly!!! Ran 21 with 4 people, dog, gear, and boat blind on a GD 18'44''. Motor also put out 2 foot blue flame out the back when she ran. Before I sold it I had 70 hours on the mods.

Thanks Postalpaul, I am going to get intake, valve springs, and governor spring, but where can you get the exhuast? Its not on that link....

Just give Mike or Robert a call. They'll be able to help you out.

Compression test results: 90 left cyl, 100 right cyl. What is the groups opinion on this? Seems low to me.

Did you do the compression check properly? Throttle wide open? Sounds awfully low, does the motor run right?

What speeds are you running currently?

compression check was done T.W.O. with ign disconnected, thats the way I've always done em on automotive engines and had fine results. Yeah, I was thinking holy crap, I'm about to drop a piston through the jug hear, not good at all, anything less than 90 and I'm done. Strange thing is that the motor starts right up, litterally within the first second of turning over even when cold as long as its choked. Currently the speed is an issue. I am running only 12mph with a 15' G3 .100 flat bottom jon. I suspect my major issue is prop wear, as I have a 9" prop which measures just less than 8". I am ordering a new one asap.

I can double check with the honda manual but..I think 80-110 psi is serviceable
I think your fine with compression check. From what I have heard and understand this compression reading is normal. You can check your lifter's cold compression stroke TDC on each cylinder set em to .006 intake and .008 exhaust.

what brand or MM rig is this LT SD???
When is the last time you cleaned the carb??
These Honda rigs have a fuel cutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carb, mine slowly gummed up and I started noticing my rig slowing. Until opening day of duck season the beeeech wont start.

The brand name of the motor is Beavertail, the boat is G3. I have never cleaned the carb, I just bought the boat recently. I got the Honda PDF manual for free from their site, i cant find the original comp data. At any rate, the SOB runs reel good, just a little concerning. I really think my speed issue is the prop, but I wont know fer sure till I put the new prop on and add the additional load to the engine. How often do you clearance the valves? On my old VW it was a monthly issue.

I believe the shop manual states every 50 hrs check em and every 100 readjust them. My Honda runs great and starts fine but other than sending it to the "Mod Shops" the only mods I am running is the shaved heads. I dont know about the governor spring on that link I sent you. There is a long running theory around here about running these things to high RPM's
If you do install any mods let us know how they perform and what you think of them. Good Luck

Whats the theory? Running high RPMs causes the motor's lifespan to shorten? That pretty well applies to ALL ENGINES. If you run a motor at 9000RPM you can bet that you aint gettin 100k out of it. Show me a sport bike with more than 50k on the original engine.....for that matter, show me a sport bike with 50k with the original rider....

made any head way on your rig??

No sir, unfortunately I got slapped with a $600 repair bill for my pick up, that is seriously dampening my efforts. With the muffler, I am definetly going to blaze a new trail, there is no way that I am payin almost $500 for the one offered by EVT. I can just buy a new factory muffler, cut the manifold mounts off, and fab a new high flow one with my pipe bender and welder. What I am going to do is get a cherry bomb glass pack and weld a washer on to one which has a slightly smaller opening than the combined area of the two exhaust ports so I have just a touch of BP. Should cost less than $75 and will only take about an hour of work to do so, and should give me the same, or better flow.

I havent pulled anything off the motor yet either, if it is like the old B&S motors which had studs for the intake, I am going to go ahead and fab up my own intake as well. I once fabbed an intake for a 27hp lawn tractor engine to accept a 30pict VW carb from a 1500cc motor, when I put it on a 690cc engine without a governor I had a go-kart that was a death trap. Im 14 years older and much more skilled so should be a piece of cake.

gotta get my dang prop first though!