i had a hard time locating any photos of the heads, rockers, lifters or any other internals for the vanguard 23, so here are a couple for others to reference. it's not a full write up but may help someone else.


looking naked with the cover off

photo (43).JPG

top of head w/ valve cover off

photo (42).JPG

rockers



preface:
i don't know much about what i'm doing so take this with a grain of salt and get your info from the more knowledgeable folks around here.

i learned a lot today and plan to learn some more tomorrow. she's back together and running a little lean. i'm thinking its time to rejet.

Got the Iron Mountain Heads back with the shiny new valves:



torqued the head bolts down to 30 ft lbs because i looked at the wrong specs (35 briggs). luckily i didn't damage the threads or heat it up and crack the head. i backed them off and tightened them down in a cross pattern first at 10, then 16, then 21 ft lbs with some anti seize on the threads.



dropped in new pushrods:


BPS Rockers:
had to slide the rocker stud on first and hold the rocker up while tightening because the clearance was narrow near the top of the rocker, which didn't allow the flange of the stud to turn past.



setting the valve lashing:
i thought this would be the hardest part but it really turned out to be cake if you follow the directions. it was a lot easier than putting all the bolts, wires, shields and covers back.

i went with .004 for top end performance and maybe a little less noise out of the rockers. i also figured it may expand a little with the heat/use and leave me around .005/.006, which are still within specs.

photo (50).JPG


intake with spacer and copper gasket spray to reuse my gaskets. All local dealers were out of stock.



didn't get too crazy cleaning up the air coming in:
one side done










I'm not a big fan of rust, so i got out the dremmel with a buffing wheel and cleaned up a bit. i then used some rust primer and a quality enamel to keep the rust down in the future. this is the first coat and unfortunately i forgot to take a finished pic. i taped the magnet to keep the paint off. it didn't seem like something i should be painting.



other lessons learned:
--take lots of pics during tear down so you can reference them later.

--organize and label parts/bolts as the come off

--magnetic trays are awesome

--ask questions before you start and make sure your source is reliable.

--get all the parts you need before you break it down or at least verify that they are locally in stock.



Gains:
not sure yet. i'm actually turning less rps's out of the water at wide open throttle now than i was before the mods. I'm pretty sure it's just because i'm running the stock carb and haven't rejetted it yet. the plugs are showing a lean condition. I'll get some help tomorrow and see what we can do about it.

Awsom yea i would like some pictures for sure. I'm a small block owner as well and the IM heads are the only thing bolt on i have left to do. i might just get Cody at SETX Performance to do a valve job and port and polish instead.

U must have painted your new heads camouflage, because I can't see them n the pictures.

turning 4500 plus out of the water now. i talked with micah at MB and he gave me some things to try. the first was to bend the tab that the limiter spring is attached to. second was to remove and plug the fuel limiter or whatever it's called that is on the carb. it has two wires that pass through the intake manifold. i never got that far because the limiter spring trick worked. i still have some hesitation on the throttle and it wants to die if you let off, so i may need to do some tuning or plug the fuel limiter/reducer. i was told it'd be a good idea to run it first, so that's what i'll do.

here's a few shots of the spring:

it is the larger one in the center of the pic.
top looking down

photo (61).JPG

from the side

photo (62).JPG

i was told to bend the tab back about 1/4 toward the engine to increase rpm's. if the idle increased i was told to bend it back a little. it worked.

not sure if i inadvertently bent the tab when it was unbolted or if it's a common thing to do when you make modifications. either way i'm excited to see what she'll do on the water.

No pics show up. Pretty sure you cannot link the photos from TOS.

I figured he was using some new paint that I wasn't aware of.

You SUCK at the internet.

Yea i was wondering about the pictures i havent seen the first one and was like WTF?

funny, they still show up on my computer. does mmt do image hosting? i've done this on a couple threads but i guess the pics didn't show up there either. not sure what the TOS are over here but if anyone wants a link to the pics they can pm me.

You hosted them on TOS (The Other Site). This site probably bans them photos... Use Photobucket.

wow, i checked the valve lash today and was a little surprised. three of the rockers had .008 lash and one was .014! all adjustment nuts were tight and i checked them before putting the valve covers back on last time. at the time, they all were at .004 or possibly .005. this occurred after about an hour of out of the water and an hour of in the water operation.

has anyone seen this type of uneven change in lash? for the other 3, it's possible that i was set closer to .006 due to the fact that i now have oil to lube the spacers, so less drag.