I know alot of you guys could care less about speed but since i dont run much mud, i want to try to get everything set up for speed more so than torque. I looking at going with a 1966 boat (prob gator-tail) CC setup with front and rear decks. Looking at twin GTR's or possibly the newer MB's that have instant reverse. What are the things that components that will contribute to the best speed out of a rig similar to this? Ive heard that a cam is more for bottom end but it seems that with the right grind, it would help top end. Also i know that the prop will play a big part in this also. Im hoping having dual MM will take care of the bottom end on its own, and if i could get this rig in the high 30's i would be tickled! Thanks for any and all help!

robn has a good point i mean you can get a really nice jet boat or a really nice dual rig. but you will be able to go faster in the jet boat and it'll be bone stock(not saying there is anything wrong wit mods) i know for a fact a dual rig will carry a hell of a load how ever they are hell when you get them stuck on a mud flat or run over alot of hard bottom(they are heavier and therefor draft a bit more)

hope this helps,trey

I may have said that wrong...i dont intend on loading all my buddies up and go looking for mud to play in! Where I duck hunt at is super stumpy and thick vegetation plus i bowfish alot, so yall know how that goes. The places i go, a jet boat is out of the question. I fish some down around lafitte and i know i will run some super skinny water, but will avoid pure mud flats. Hope this clears it up a bit, I know its alot of money but for what I do, I think this will just about be the perfect boat. Gonna get deep sides on her, prob 28" since i may make a trip or two out to the islands every now and then!

Go all out mod it to the max hahaha

Carbs,intakes, Exhaust , with shimed springs will put you in the 36 to 38 MPH range, i know this for a fact.

you can spin 4500 RPM with out head work. That 2nd motor makes modding these dual rigs out a total different ball game.

I like what im hearing...

When we done the heads and cam work on the dual rig it was spinning to many RPMs for the stock rods, both motors at full throttle would spin over 5200, so we took out the cam and went back to stock heads.

yea your right about the gears, just didnt feel like getting into that part of it, with carbs, intakes, and exhaust when takem and keastan came hunting with us were were turbine 36.4 with us 3 and dog and hunting load, i know not all boats perform the same but this dual rig is pretty heavy, the have all the bottom end you will need when they are stock.

Heads, carb, exhaust, high rev coils, and reworked props = one bad mofo

yea its not freaking cheap to do 2 of them

If your spending 30k, what's another 4k more?

Say it fast it dont sound as bad

i do recommend getting your vavles shimmed if you are going to leave the heads stock, with carbs, intakes and exhaust you will pushing the limit to floating your vavles.

Just one piece of advice Shane. Before you go drop big $$ on a BIG boat, I'd try and find one to run in the area you plan on running it in. As far as bow fishing in Lafitte, I have a camp not far from there and fish or hunt in that area practically every weekend, and a dual mudmotor rig would run well there especially for bow fishing. However, in your very first post on here you mentioned that you run very shallow fresh water rivers with sandy bottom, as well as in areas that are "stumpy" as you put it. Personally I dont think there are 2 worse environments to run a 2000+ # boat in regardless of how much hp you strap on the back of it..........Just a little something to consider.


As far as running high 30's. Practically every dual rig I have sold or set up for people, my customers have either got modded Mudbuddy motors or have had me add performance parts to them till they were happy. While you can easily get them to run in the high 30's with the right amount of parts added, what I have found is that when you do you usually wind up sacraficing something else (usually the ability to jump up quickly, especially with a load). So the majority of the dual rigs you will find out there are set up like like Jamie mentioned where they turn alot of rpm's (and you will have to watch your throttle when you are light loaded), and thus run in the mid 30s with a "normal" load, so that they have a bunch of low end power to get that big boat up and going.

Shane where are you located?

SE Mississippi

here is my reasoning...i currently have a 1754 war eagle with a 50 yamaha on it. During the summer we go to a large river to hang out on the weekends and i fish alot in a lake that was a pine plantation that was flooded, stumps everywhere!!! During the winter, the places i normally duck hunt, i have to just about idle everywhere because of the vegetation/stumps/logs. The shallower river close to the house is not a must but would be nice to run in the summer to try to shoot a few fish. Im tired of being restricted to where i go by the outboard and I want a larger boat since i venture out into the gulf some (have to be very picky of when I do it currently). My solutions are 1) get a larger boat with tunnel hull and outboard or 2) get a larger boat which would require duals to push it the way I would want it to

Why not just get a 20x60 with high sides and stock motors, and run low 30's with reliable motors with a 3 year warranty.

If you get the rod boxes built in somethng like in the catwalks of DDMs new boat it would be ideal for a 60", but in the dual rig we have the boxes stick out towards the inside the boat and it is a pain to walk around with the center consol, are you can try and get the rod boxes built into the front deck as far as possible and that would work also to free up room around the CC.

This is the Lay out of my old 20 x 60 IMG-20110923-00001.jpgIMG-20110923-00002.jpg

If you would take the rod boxes and build them into the front deck about 3 foot you would have all of the floor space you need by the consol.

I have a 2072 dual rig and use it on a lot of hard bottom areas. Everyone will prob say I dont know what im talkin about but I used to run a 2072 mv with a 200 hp jet. A lot of peaple will say that that you need a jet for hard bottom but I get way better fuel milage and I dont have to clean the jet out everytime you hit sumthin and it gets suck in the grate. The sd will run almost as shallow and the wider boat will float in shallower water than the 60 which is good with hard bottom. The bad part of a wide boat will be that it will be slower than the narrower one on top speed. The console in the front also slows it down cause it makes more of the boat drag the water when on plane but when floating it holds the heavy duals higher out of the water cause of the weight on the front. I love my boat for what I use it for and will run 4 inches of water with hard bottom fine. I just have to know where I want to go so I dont stop where it wont float which is the same with a jet and if you do get it stuck you better have a winch cause it is a heavy sob. Just like every boat there are trade offs. Heres a pic of the layout of mine.

I cant answer that question on performance loss, I would think it would be small, also if you are stuck on the upper 30s for speed it will not be a problem, just have to do the heads to.

in the conditions you bowfish airpower is the way to go, tote big load,go fast and run over stumps and logs and in the same money range you are looking at. 18x8 running 500hp will do anything you are wanting to do. downfall is increased running and upkeep cost, though i dont burn about 10 gallons in a 5 hr stretch of bowfishin.

i did ride in a 20x54 prodrive the other day with dual 36's down on the coast and it ran 33 with 4 people in it. its for sale to boot!