Has anybody found a good sealer (RTV, yamabond 4 etc) to use with the crankcase gasket to prevent it from leaking right away after it's resealed. I'm looking for something that will get me at least 200 plus hours without a leak but will also not be like super glue if I want to monkey with different cams down the road. thanks

Use the search feature.

Good luck getting 200 hours out of it...

I can't help but admit that is one of the poorest designs I have seen in a long time. Briggs really should redesign that whole crankcase mating area as it is definitely a weak link of that motor. thanks

Not sure what Calen uses but mine seems to be holding up better since he re-did it. Maybe he can chime in. I only have 70 hrs on it since then, however i don't see it lasting 200.

160 hard hours on the genny and not a leak one.

you'll have to excuse me for asking, but what is a genny? Sounds like whatever calen and drake 1 did seems to be working well so far. thanks. If briggs would thicken up the case a bit around the flange and almost double the numbers of bolts in the case/block and put in 4 instead of 2 relatively tight locator pins along with an impregnated high temp silicone gasket I think they would be on the right track. With the amount of torque placed on the crank I have a feeling that cover is shifting a bit here and there and eventually (short of welding the case together) the damn thing will leak regardless of what you do. I was thinking of machining out the cam and crank bearing areas the thickness of the gasket and just using yamabond 4 or rtv and bolting it together metal to metal. Oh and waiting for yamaha to build a mud motor and hopefully get it right the first time. (but I digress). sorry.

I believe drake1 is refering to his generac motor on his gtr

I haven't had a problem with this yet but was thinking about the way aircraft engines are rebuilt. Silk thread is used between the crankcase halves with good results. Most engines run from 1800 to 2400 hrs without any leaks. Might be an idea to try during a rebuild. At 1:11 it shows the silk thread being applied.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vB0MIQVH9Mo

not a bad idea. I have heard of this practice but forgot about it. interesting. I'll have to look into this a bit further. thx I did find some thread locker yesterday at oreilly's that is called surface insensitive which is supposebly oil resistant so hopefully when put back together I can at least keep the damn crank cover bolts at their suggested torque levels. I'm going to try the copper permatex rtv to both sides of the gasket as I've had great luck with it in the past for oil related sealing. thx

I've never dealt with a case leak on these motors, but on every other engine I use copper coat. Just spray it on the factory gasket and put the gasket on. It works well on everything I used it on.


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i work in a electrical motor shop. we seal aluminum all the time with a product called curl-t .water wont get in and oil wont get out .good stuff u can get it at mcs r fastenal