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 Fuel 101 
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Post Fuel 101
I dont know if this is the gospel according to fuel but I thought it might be informative:

Problems with gasoline additive
A recently introduced gasoline additive has caused problems in the engines and fuel systems of some boats, and experts have come to agree on a set of common-sense solutions, which we’ll describe below. Many states have mandated replacement of the gasoline additive MTBE with ethanol (denatured grain alcohol). This changeover was part of the 2005 Energy Bill, which also eliminated the requirement for oxygenated gas, the main reason MTBE, a suspected carcinogen and groundwater pollutant, was added in the first place. The bill also required ethanol, made from Midwestern corn, to be gradually added to the nation’s supply of gasoline. It removed protection for fuel suppliers from MTBE-related lawsuits, a big reason why ethanol has rapidly phased in. Most marinas are required to post the ethanol content in their fuel.

This blend of gasoline with ethanol added, called E-10, contains 10% ethanol and 90% gas. The recommendations in this West Advisor are based on use of E-10, the most commonly available “ethanol” fuel. A few states are also offering E-85 (85% ethanol, 15% gasoline, mostly available in Minnesota and Illinois), and some domestic cars and SUVs are designated as Flexible Fuel Vehicles, which can safely fill up with E-85. At this time, unless specifically stated by the engine/vessel systems manufacturers, E-85 is not recommended for use in marine power systems. For example, Mercury approves and warranties the use of E-10 fuels, but does not approve or warranty the use of E-85. E-10 works great in most cars, which tend to be newer than the majority of pleasure boats and get used far more regularly and more often. Boat owners and mechanics have reported problems connected with the changeover to E-10. Some of the challenges you may need to consider:
•Ethanol acts as a detergent, loosening rust, debris and other gunk inside your tank and fuel lines. This crud clogs fuel filters, restricting fuel flow and leading to stalling and hard starting.
•Ethanol’s corrosive solvent-like characteristics also remove resins and plasticizers from some plastic and rubber materials. Most significantly, it damages the resins in fiberglass fuel tanks (used in many Bertram, Chris Craft and Hatteras boats in the 1960s and 1970s). Tanks slowly soften and begin leaking (with the associated potential for explosion from fuel in the bilge). Black sludge is created that builds up on intake valves, causing them to stick, and on fuel injectors, clogging orifices, with the potential for major engine damage, like bent pushrods. Some resins, notably vinylester, are impervious to ethanol. Most common types of epoxy and polyester resin are not ethanol-resistant.
•Ethanol is hygroscopic–it absorbs water, and will mix more easily with water than with gasoline. Up to 10% of your fuel could become a water-ethanol mix, and the liquid may undergo “phase separation”, forming a top layer of pure low–octane gas and a bottom layer of water-saturated ethanol. Since the fuel pickup is located at the tank bottom, water contaminated fuel can cause your engine to run badly, or not run at all. This low-octane fuel causes problems with performance in four stroke engines, and can cause damage in two stroke outboards from lean fuel and lack of the in-fuel lubricating oil (due to the presence of the water).
•Ethanol has a short six-week shelf life, and the octane begins to decrease after that time period. A minor concern in a car, this deterioration is a more substantial problem in infrequently used boats or during winter haulouts.

Dealing with ethanol-related problems
•Don’t mix ethanol-enhanced fuel with the old stuff that contains MTBE. The combination of the two additives, especially when water is mixed in, may create a gel-like material that clogs carburetors (especially in outboards). Use all the old gas before refueling with E-10 if possible, or refill with the tank no more than 20% full. A clean, dry tank is best for the first fillup.
•Replace fuel filters frequently during the first few tanks of ethanol fuel. If you don’t already have one, install a fuel/water separator filter, carry replacement elements and a metal bucket for holding used elements. Be prepared to change filters on the water if your engine loses rpm, sputters or hesitates. We also strongly recommend installing a spin-on fuel vacuum gauge so that you can see when the filter needs to be changed.
•If your boat or engine was built before 1990, you may need to replace old hoses, O-rings, primer bulbs or other plastic or rubber parts that are not alcohol-compatible. Inspect the system more frequently for leakage or deterioration. Most fuel hoses made after 1984 and labeled with SAE J1527 are ethanol safe.
•Do your best to keep water out of your fuel. Fill up with only as much gas as you will use during the next two weeks (conversely, keeping your tank full prevents water from condensing on its walls, especially if you live in an area with big daily temperature swings). When fueling, we advise using a funnel like the West Marine Fuel Filter Funnels to prevent water and particulates from entering your system. Add a gasoline fuel treatment like Star brite’s Star Tron.
•When winterizing, top off fuel tanks to about 95% full, leaving room for expansion, and add a good fuel stabilizer such as West Marine EZ-Store/EZ-Start or Sta-Bil. A nearly full tank limits the flow of air into and out of the vent, reducing the chance of condensation adding water to the fuel. Draining fuel tanks of E-10 gas, while completely eliminating any chances of phase separation, is potentially dangerous and an impractical solution.
•Once phase separation occurs, additives and water separators can’t help. The only remedy is to have the gas and ethanol/water mixture professionally removed from the tank. With any fuel that sits in a tank for a long time, it’s important to add a stabilizer (but understand that stabilizers do not prevent phase separation). Phase separation problems typically happen when boats are stored over the winter with tanks only a quarter to half full. In the summer, infrequently used boats with partially filled tanks are also prone to phase separation.
•Never try to plug up a fuel tank vent to prevent moist air from entering a tank. Without room to expand, the additional pressure could rupture fuel system components.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Thanks, I guess I'll be buying that fuel/water seperator now. - I needed to anyway, this just hurries it along.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Good info

My addition to all that is that - I use a "2 WEEK RULE"

I never use fuel in any of my boats which is over 2 weeks old - I transfer
the older fuel into my truck so it is not wasted nor allowed to age in the
boat's system...


I think of fuel like milk - once milk spoils adding new milk does not make
it OK to consume - it just comtaminates more milk...

My version of winterization or extended storage is to drain and clear
the fuel lines and tank... Add new fuel when ready to use and purge
the lines before reconnection to the motor...

Also and this IS overkill - I only run one brand of fuel which I buy ideally
from one or two trusted vendors and only run 93 octane...

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Thats good info. Thanks for posting.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Good Stuff, thanks slinger.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
one thing ill add is that they dont say what octane level

I've always heard that 87 octane has the most (full 10%) of ethanol and dont know the percentage differences but goes down the higher the octane goes up...here in ETX 93 octane is highest you can buy legally at a pump for your car and has little to no ethanol mixed in and believe that because had to rebuild carb on my weld machine 3 times and finally started using straight 93 and havent had single problem since and anything I own that uses a carb gets 93 put in it

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Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:52 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
I don't know but some of this hype over the use of E10 may be just that, hype.

Many of us who live in Americas "bread basket" have been burning E10 for years, personally I have experienced no ill effects.

This two week shelf life bit also seems a little fishy. We own 3 vehicles so one will sometimes sit for several weeks at a time without being started, again I personally have seen no ill effects.

Maybe I've just been lucky and am living on borrowed time......

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Mon Jul 13, 2009 12:01 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Phowler,

Most newer vehicles have a computer and sensors that allow
the use of a broad range of fuel types and qualities....

A small engine does not - that is why I transfer the "aged fuel"
to the truck and only allow the small engine to consume new 93
octane fuel...

It might be overkill - but it works for me...

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Phowler - if you have a chance, compare your mileage with a tank of straight gasoline vs. a tank of ethanol gas. It makes about a 2-3 mpg difference in my Suburban.

I realize that this mandate is good for the corn farmers, but that stuff is junk. Bad all the way around for consumers, good all the way around for corn farmers and small engine repair shops.

I'm adding Sta-Bil Blue to the fuel that goes into all my boats now. We had one local fuel distributor that kept with the 100% gas until about a month ago.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
WOW!


jus got my grant from de obama admin...
my mud motor is now powered by hot air ;)





ders plenty of dat to harness :P


Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:36 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Capt. Jon wrote:
Phowler - if you have a chance, compare your mileage with a tank of straight gasoline vs. a tank of ethanol gas. It makes about a 2-3 mpg difference in my Suburban.

I realize that this mandate is good for the corn farmers, but that stuff is junk. Bad all the way around for consumers, good all the way around for corn farmers and small engine repair shops.

I'm adding Sta-Bil Blue to the fuel that goes into all my boats now. We had one local fuel distributor that kept with the 100% gas until about a month ago.



That is the fatal flaw in this whole mandate.

Ethanol is less efficient that gasoline so therefore you need more fuel to do the same work. Not to mention that it costs more to make and uses more energy to refine that gasoline. Not to mention that it has to be trucked because of it's caustic properties, so it uses more diesel to move than gas in a pipeline.


Bad idea all the way around.

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Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:31 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
With gas prices like they are now and have been, how long do you think that 93 octane has been sitting in those tanks beneath the ground at the gas station? When you were filling these motors up last summer with 93 and gas was over $4.00 a gallon, you were probably putting two-week old gas in your mowers, er I mean mudmotors. :lol:

You guys crack me up.... :lol:

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Just like milk - the day you buy it, it already has some shelf time, but
it has been stored under industry controlled conditions, when you take
it home and begin using it, it is exposed to contamination...


Fuel starts out the same way, once it is placed into the boat's tank, it
is exposed to contamination.... Your car's fuel system is a complex and
hi tech system of vapor recovery and presurization controls....


Boat tank is just a slight improvement on holdin fuel in an open bucket...

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Wed Jul 15, 2009 7:07 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Middle America has run up to 10% ethanol for over 20 years in boats, trucks, and cars. YES, big problems were in the beginning 1990's with old-old style fuel lines, fuel tanks, and some O-rings on older USED vehicles and boats.
Newer stuff, 1990's plus hasn't been much of an issue at all.
Yes, MTBE and Ethanol mixed will create a slimy gooey gel. Don't mix them.
Yes, Ethanol will absorb more some moisture from the air over time. Use the fuel, or top off the tank.
Yes you need a stabilizer (sta-bil or sea foam) for long term fuel storage.
Most of the hype is Y2K paranoid sh*t pumped out of marine suppliers to create a market for their "solutions" that usually don't apply to a newer 40HP and under MM.

AND .... MTBE is pure toxic crap, all gas gets some water in it over time if humidity is high, and all pump gas benefits from a stabilizer on long storage (refineries do mix additive blends different from winter to summer)

If you have an old rusty, or composite, or fiberglass fuel tank on old-old fuel lines and bulbs, then you will likely see some problems.
If you have a newer (mid-1990's to date) MM with newer metal or plastic fuel tanks , nope you will not likely have problems IF you use fresh fuel (or stabilizer) and you change your stock fuel filter every year (excellent prevention). We carry extra fuel line, and fuel filter, and new squeeze bulb in every marine repair kit (sunlight & bilge water that has rotten the fuel squeeze bulbs is the unrelated problem we see lots of!).
The #1 fuel problem seen here, in Middle USA, is OLD GAS causing carburetors to gum up. OLD 100% Gasoline w/additives, not just 10% ethanol .#1 marine engine PROBLEM. It will varnish-up float needles...it will goo-up carb floats and effect fuel in bowl level, it will clog that darn carb body passage ways for sure. Gas here is blended with winter/summer additives (all pump gas has additives), and FRESH fuel is the best problem prevention.

FRESH FUEL is the way to deal with 10% ethanol. I went from a single 12 Gallon gas tank to 2 Six gallon tanks with my 23HP Beavertail. I burn 6 gallons , then switch tanks. That really helps to keep me in fresh fuel. Topping the tank off with fresh gas after use really helps too; dilution can be the solution. :D

Mostly the talk of using a fuel/water separating filter comes from the BIG boat guys who have hundreds of gallons of reserve fuel in their work boats or cruiser tanks and they get water condensation over the cold winter months. The bigger the fuel tank, and especially BIG metal ones (18 gallons up), a separator is good insurance if you don't' frequently use up your tank (we use some cheap older in-line Mercury Marine fuel/H20 separators we get off scrap boats...just get a new spin-on when needed)

Oh, and for those that don't like 10% of their fuel to come from AMERICAN farmers, well it's 100% better than kissing any Arabs' ass to get oil!
It would be great to get all our oil from the USA (especially you oil rich States!), or even from good friendly nations, but unfortunately we get way too much oil from *ssholes who send Saudi Jihadist to attack our homeland. If it's 10% less American money going to buy Mujibar and and his Talibaneese weapons to use on our troops.... if it helps keep an American Farm family going in these tough times ...I can work around the 10% ethanol in the gas.


Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:12 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Gigafowl wrote:
Just like milk - the day you buy it, it already has some shelf time, but
it has been stored under industry controlled conditions, when you take
it home and begin using it, it is exposed to contamination...


Fuel starts out the same way, once it is placed into the boat's tank, it
is exposed to contamination.... Your car's fuel system is a complex and
hi tech system of vapor recovery and presurization controls....


Boat tank is just a slight improvement on holdin fuel in an open bucket...



If you say so....I don't see how a 3 inch wide hole that is opened every couple weeks makes a fuel tank similar to an open bucket.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
UncleErnie wrote:
Oh, and for those that don't like 10% of their fuel to come from AMERICAN farmers, well it's 100% better than kissing any Arabs' ass to get oil!
It would be great to get all our oil from the USA (especially you oil rich States!), or even from good friendly nations, but unfortunately we get way too much oil from *ssholes who send Saudi Jihadist to attack our homeland. If it's 10% less American money going to buy Mujibar and and his Talibaneese weapons to use on our troops.... if it helps keep an American Farm family going in these tough times ...I can work around the 10% ethanol in the gas.


Ernie, I can appreciate a lot of what you said, but this is not a valid argument.

Remember, ethanol is less efficient than gasoline, so you will need to purchase more of an ethanol/gas blend to go the same distance as running straight gasoline. But you also have to figure in the amount of diesel fuel that is involved in producing that ethanol -- working, planting & harvesting corn fields in addition to the diesel used for transportation of the finished ethanol product (no ethanol in the pipelines). At best, I can only see this as being a wash.

I'm certainly not arguing the logic of buy American, but in this case it is flawed. Hell, if it was just about not sending American dollars to the Middle East & South America, we would just not burn any gasoline at all (just walk everywhere and paddle a boat - made from all natural products, no doubt). But since that is not feasable, perhaps look at the fuel savings if everyone in the US drove a motorcycle instead of trucks/suv. But that is not feasable either (because I HAVE to be able pull my boat and burn more gas in my boat motor). Well, that's not feasable either. Perhaps you could get a diesel engined truck & boat motor and make your own fuel from domestic waste vegetable oil (that's supporting the American farmer, too).

So you see, there are several available options out there, but let's not call into question someone's Patriotism because they resist being force-fed a less efficient, less stable, equipment destroying technology that is mandated to be a part of a product that we are all using.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
Got Dayum


There's an echo in here.




:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:09 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
I explained the whole gassoline thing once before on a thread earlier this year. And someone wanted to make an arguement with me so this time I'll just sit back and watch. Hell, what do I know I only refine the oil into gassoline, diesel, jet fuel, kerosine, alkylate, and several dozen other products. That would be like asking Warren Coco a question about a go-devil and expeting him to know the answer. Uh uh uh...... :idea: hey, uh...uh.. never mind it's like trying to teach Japanese to a frog. :roll: :roll:

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Thu Jul 16, 2009 2:20 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Capt. Jon ; "I would not call into question someone's Patriotism because they resist being force-fed", any more than a few fine Forum folks would question a mans' leadership ability based on his racial color, or the funny sound of his surname :roll:

In my youth I worked as a well-logger for Schlumberger.
My fuzzy trust of the petroleum industry comes with a healthy dose of skepticism.

I can definitely say, in regards to the transport cost argument validity, that I am presently working on this project >>> http://www.transcanada.com/keystone/keystone_pipeline.html. That project will pump Canadian crude to OK & Illinois; where then, at least in IL. , the Illinois River and Mississippi River barges are used to transport ethanol to refinery. Barges can haul a heck of a lot of ethanol!

I would have agreed with your arguments 3 years ago, wholeheartedly, but today in 2009 (after the previous years of war, oil spikes, and economic sh*tslide on Wall Street) the ethanol is a tiny viable 'stopgap' measure to take. We have it now, it does work. The diesel fuel used to produce the ethanol WOULD have been used to produce any similar crop. It's not like your saving agricultural fuel by planting some soybeans instead. The system is NOW set up and in place for ethanol crops (like corn), so the tractors that plow the fields aren't using more diesel to grow special corn. The trucks that deliver ethanol around here have local American drivers. Maybe it is a sort of "workfare" way of keeping truckers employed ?? But around here there are lots of truckers who could sure use a job right now and hauling ethanol beats waiting for welfare check while watching the Jerry Springer Show.

You do have an excellent point about being "forced" to use something because that is all that will be available. But that is the sad nature of the whole petro business. The whole friggen' oil owning world is 5 major companies. They do heavily influence who we go to war with (WMD"s , yea right!!) and they sure as hell can call a lot of political shots around the globe. Cartels of *ssholes who hate Americans mandate the price of oil and that mandates your cost and usage of gas or diesel. Oil makes the world go round, and I honestly wish home-grown bio-diesel, or electric, or solar was more available NOW.
But my point from my original post was this, a lot of Middle America has been using the ethanol for decades, and we adjusted just fine. Your right it isn't a great choice, but it is a home-grown choice that's here and now.


Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:11 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
OK, points taken and understood - especially about the diesel for growing crops issue. But we still have a few different views on the issue and that is fine.

So now let's take this in a little different direction regarding the use of foreign oil. Yes, we are paying a premium cost for foreign oil, especially knowing that there are domestic reserves, and in great quantities. Since there has been a reluctance to develop alternatives that would satisfy the current need/want, could the US be taking the strategy of exhausting their reserves while preserving ours? It's seems to be a case of "why use up all of mine when I can use up all of yours" approach. In 10/20/30/whatever years, when the Middle East is dry, the US will still have its full capacities. What will that be worth then - knowing that it is the ONLY supply remaining?

It's a gamble with technology advancements that could remove/greatly reduce oil dependance. Remove the demand and the value drops, but history is proving that the demand will continue.

You also have to consider the "breaking point" for that cost -- in dollars, lives, alliances, etc.



And on another oil/gas/diesel note, Pilot bought Flying J travel centers yesterday. Flying J is the number 1 fueling choice for trucking owner operators and has their own refineries, so their refining business essentially just doubled as I am sure that they will now be providing for all of the Pilot branded travel centers as well. Consolidation, consolidation, consolidation. Petro and TA joined not too long ago.

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Post Re: Fuel 101
The biggest problem with the stuff is the unseen cost. Land that was in the CRP is now planted in corn.The cost of corn and feed is through the roof. Fields that were planted in other staples are now planted in corn ,driving demand and cost up. Bread even cost more!!!
(I can only judge by the cost of deer corn). Every thing that eats corn -beef, pork and poultry all cost more to grow, a cost they pass on. When you pay more for food You also pay higher sales taxes. Its not just meat its butter, milk, ice cream etc. Its not efficient,cost more to make,has had a negative overall impact on the cost of living. Its not the answer to our energy problem. Clean diesel makes more sense, there are cars in Europe
getting close to 50 mpg on diesel. There is enough oil here ,if we geared up
to get it and stopped letting the tail wag the dog. If you don't want to drill for oil in your state, Calf and Fla , who ever else can do with out.

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Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:10 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Capt. Jon wrote:
Phowler - if you have a chance, compare your mileage with a tank of straight gasoline vs. a tank of ethanol gas. It makes about a 2-3 mpg difference in my Suburban.

I realize that this mandate is good for the corn farmers, but that stuff is junk. Bad all the way around for consumers, good all the way around for corn farmers and small engine repair shops.

I'm adding Sta-Bil Blue to the fuel that goes into all my boats now. We had one local fuel distributor that kept with the 100% gas until about a month ago.


Capt., filled the F150 with a non-ethanol blend last night so we shall see. I just recently checked mileage with E10 so it should be a good comparison.

I do not like the fact that ethanol is a government mandate.

I do not like the fact that CRP, wetlands and native praire are being replaced with row crops.

I do not like the fact that we are currently governed by liberals and it has nothing to do with their leaders name or skin color.

I do not have anything more to add at this point. 8-)

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Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:23 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Add Stabilizer to your fuel tank and don't worry about it!

I've stored gas in excess of 6 mos (unitentionally) however I just changed the fuel water separator and fuel filters and she ran like a champ... I have had fuel issues with my 4stroke yamaha 250, all due to the fact that I'd get bad gas at a marina or forgot to put fuel stabilizer in when I filled up.

Gigafowl's 2 week plan is good however if you put Stabil in I believe you can double or triple that number before I'd put the gas elsewhere...

Just unhook your fuel line from your tank and run the gas out at the launch... That way you never have to worry about bad gas degrading or breaking down in the fuel line or carburetor just drain the 5 or 9ga gas tank into something else and top off with fresh gas.

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Tue Jul 21, 2009 12:18 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
As a chemist by profession, I can agree with many of the technical points brought up by everyone. The common point is this....Gas will change characteristics based on what part of the country each of you live in (temp swings to allow condensation to occur), depending on supplier (may have contamination issues from one to another), and polymers are vulnerable to different constituents in gasoline. (Although the technology has gotten better.) My advice is this....Run 93 octane fuel through your motor. Add a fuel stabilizer, Lucas, Seafoam,etc...and make sure your filter is changed frequently. Fuel/water seperator would be nice add on, but not necessary if you are using fuel quickly and not allowing it to sit for long periods of time. At the end of the season, run the fuel out of the motor and do not allow fuel to sit in a tank for too long. I have been practicing this methodology for a couple of years and have not had any issues.


Mon Aug 17, 2009 7:26 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
I just had a problem this week with my 25 Nissian. Had old gas ( 6 months ) and didn't think a thing about it. Had to drain the tank fill with fresh, ran a can of Sea Foam through it(just at idle in driveway), still had to take the carb off and clean it. Pain in the ass.

Now my question is , my other baot with my 50 Nissian has been sitting for about 4 months. It is oil in jected and I have a spin on filter\water seperator on it. Besides draining the tank what else do I need to do? I don't want to have to take the carbs off if at all possible. I'm thinking , drain the tank ,flush fuel line, change filter\ws, and hope like hell.

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Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:48 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
You can still buy ethanol free gas . Go to places that sell Fuel in bulk or little Mom and Pop gas Stations . Its usually about $.05 to $.06 a gallon more but its worth it.


Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:56 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
very informative, appreciate the info!

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Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:27 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
make sure your gas lines are compatible with ethanol it eats the iner linning over time just had to change the line on ma skiff wit a 40 merk you could see the linning in the filter and a friend of mine had to get his yamaha worked on cuz it goy into it and effed it up


Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:07 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
I just always get my motors running and unplug my fuel line and let my motor run ALL my fuel out of all my lines so that it doesn't turn into varnish or corrode anything. Just another way to ensure you don't have trouble staring it when you put fresh gas in it OR even worse, contaminate it and have to tear apart the carb and flush the system.


Just my .02.

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Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:28 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
whackem wrote:
With gas prices like they are now and have been, how long do you think that 93 octane has been sitting in those tanks beneath the ground at the gas station? When you were filling these motors up last summer with 93 and gas was over $4.00 a gallon, you were probably putting two-week old gas in your mowers, er I mean mudmotors. :lol:

You guys crack me up.... :lol:


I just opened this thread for the 1st time and saw this post...

If you think that 93 octane sits underground and filled up every few WEEKS, you are mistaken.

Try daily. Unless it is some mom and pop store.

As for the 'freshest' gas, Wal Mart. Their fuel sucks, but the tankers that fill those under ground tanks, they fill em up multiple times a day, usually every 6 hours or so.

High traffic pumps are where you should always fill up.


Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:57 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
I let my center console sit for 4 years with half a tank but added about 20 gallons of fresh fuel per year every time I would get around to fixing the engine on it. Anyway, finally gave up trying to fix the old motor and just hung a newer outboard on it and added another 20 gallons and this filled up the tank completely (85 gallons). By this time the fuel had undergone phase separation and the ethanol had attracted about 3 gallons of water. I know this because my fuel water separator was filling up after every hour of use and the amazing this is that the boat still ran fine.

What I'm getting at is that it's not always necessary to drain your fuel tank. I added fuel stabilizers and some octane boosters and was able to burn the fuel in the engine. However, the fuel in the tank was premium 93 octane which might have helped me a bit since I've read that the higher the octane, the less ethanol it contains, but I'm not completely sure about this.

I have since run about 200 gallons of fresh fuel through my engine and last week I took a look inside the tank and it was extremely clean with no varnish inside. Ethanol cleaned it right up but clogged a few fuel filters in the process.

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Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:11 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Is it better to run a higher octane or just run 87?

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Sat May 07, 2011 12:58 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
A stock motor should run fine on 87. If you have a high compression motor you should up the octane rating.


Sat May 07, 2011 1:23 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Why not just find a station that has NON Ethanol fuel. I only run Non Ethanol in my Harley, lawnmower, Boats 3, and the wives truck. I can tell a distinct difference in fuel mileage in my Harley and wives truck. Oh weedeaters and chainsaws also. In the winter you can add a little ethanol gas to a diesel to help performance. I have done this for years. I have 9 pieces of heavy equipment and my pick up. :mrgreen:


Sun May 08, 2011 6:00 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
I run grape racing fuel diluted with 93 0ctane.

Picked up 1/2 a mph!

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Sun May 08, 2011 8:16 am
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Post Re: Fuel 101
duckhunter3635 wrote:
Why not just find a station that has NON Ethanol fuel. I only run Non Ethanol in my Harley, lawnmower, Boats 3, and the wives truck. I can tell a distinct difference in fuel mileage in my Harley and wives truck. Oh weedeaters and chainsaws also. In the winter you can add a little ethanol gas to a diesel to help performance. I have done this for years. I have 9 pieces of heavy equipment and my pick up. :mrgreen:



Never heard of adding ethanol gas to diesel. How much do you add? I mix 2 stroke oil in all my diesel equipment and truck. BTW ultra low sulphur diesel SUCKS just saying.

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Fri May 20, 2011 10:00 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Guess I can consider myself lucky...gotta gas station right down the road from my house and it's NO ETHANOL.

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Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:35 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
NE TexasNoFlyZone wrote:
Guess I can consider myself lucky...gotta gas station right down the road from my house and it's NO ETHANOL.



What brand ????

I thought Texas lost it's last refinery producing NO Ethanol fuel ????

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Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:31 pm
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Post Re: Fuel 101
Here is a FYI.....

Just bought a new boat with Yamaha 4 stroke motor - during final customer instructions
from their chief mechanic - here were his instructions.....

Factory recommends - Chevron 93 octane - adding marine Stabil and Yamaha Ring Free
to every gallon of fuel - only use YamaLube motor oil with salt water corrosion control
additives at oil change time.....

Confirms a lot of what has already been posted and has me thinking about doing the
same things with my MM now too.....

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Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:41 pm
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Post Fuel 101
I have been running 87 octane through my Yamaha 4 stroke with yamalube oil. I use stabil & run it every weekend no worries. Most marinas only sell plus or premium and charge $4.10+ where at the gas station it's $3.69

Either way most people having ethanol issues don't use their boats often and don't use stabil or other fuel additives to keep the fuel from breaking down.

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