Hey guys I'm wanting to mod out my 35hp GTR. It's stock right now. I don't want to kill the life of my motor at all but it would be nice to have a little more pep on her. I got the motor on a GT1860. What should I do to it and if I did do it would I see a difference in it much with it? I've only got 120 hrs on this motor.

I would do the 3 bolt on and you will see night and day difference.

Heads
Carb
exhaust

Cant go wrong!

I would do everything except rods and pistons. Carb, heads, exhaust, and cam

Heads, cam, and exhaust are your best bang for your buck!

I have had carb and exhaust for about 167 hrs and just did heads 10 hours ago (now at 177) and about the last 5 hours have noticed some engine noise (tinging and some guttural knocking). Engine still runs good but time will tell as I'm not tearing the SOB down again anytime soon. As 50hp tiller said, I would maybe consider beefing up the rotating assmbly to handle the extra stress that several hundred RPMs will place on the motor. I'll let you know the noises were when and if it implodes. I definitely enjoy the motor alot more with the mods as the throttle response from mid range on up is way better. Didn't notice much on the bottom end though. And it definitely carries a load a fair amount better than it used to. Stock 3600RPM, carb and exhaust 3720rpm, carb, heads and exhaust 3900 rpm. I would say the heads were the best bang for the buck in my experience but all three compliment each other. I am also wondering about running some thicker 10/40 oil instead of the Amsoil 30 weight as the additional stress may have flattened out that lighter oil (just my opinion). good luck.

Heads, carb, and exhaust will out perform heads cam and exhaust in my opinion only because you don't get the full potential of a cam with a stock carb.

I have heads, cam, carb, heads, exhaust and I run the hell out of my motor and only proble
I ever had was from cam bushing in the block failing but that had nothing to do with mods. I put a lot of very hard hrs on it I don't give slack on my motor, every time I tear it down crank looks find cylinders look great. Rods will hold in my opinion can hold more tha
4600 I sling mine more than that all the time. Grant it I know it's not good but hey they holding for me and I get tons of power out my motor.

I had SETX do all my mods only a 1.5 hour drive from Houston... 200+ hours on my mods & not a single issue with them. I have Cody do an annual inspection and tuneup prior to duck season each year. I also have an 1860.

you're overthinking it cody. We are mere simpletons. Better is good enough.

Right on. Went ahead and going to do the carb as well now.
So cam, heads, carb, exhaust.

exhaust first like takemgator and deadbird have stated on another topic post. then head work. i like stock sized valves. port work and decking. watch ur decking so if down the road u decide to do a piston rod mod u can do it. now comes the fun part cam or carb. i think u need both. a cam with out a carb. or vice versa. u are never going to achieve full proformance with out the other. take the time to tune ur carb. so that on this forum. not every other post is my carb bogs when going to wot. running ur idle up to mask the hesitation is not the fix. weld in a 02 bung and buy a exhaust analizer or have a builder set up ur carb. u will thank ur self later. with a cam change i would recommend u go with roller rockers. do u have to no. but again its a proformance gain. most cam builders recommend a change. do a search on rocker arm ratio when going with a higher lift cam. many cam sites have a rocker arm ratio calculator so that u can find ur proper ratio. if u know ur cam specs. once again its a hp gain. there are some cam grinders in the midwest that can help u with a good grind. as cody stated degree ur cam in. there are many proformance centers out there that have the parts u need if u can't find the parts that are offered here. if ur doing a rod piston combo first check ur bore with a bore gauge. u might need a over bore done. weight check ur rods and pistons and get them the same. i've seen them off on weight. have ur rotating assembly balanced. yes it can be done. check ur ring end gaps when installing. plastic gauge ur brearing clearances. if done u will have a smooth running balanced assembly.if u had two rotating assemblies side by side one with rod piston mod. and used ur crankshaft turning tool. u can feel the difference in the wrench as u rotate them. the rod mod is a good power adder and a good relieability adder. if u have a cdi motor add the higher rev coils. if u pay attention to the details u will have a smooth running higher hp motor that is going to have a long life.

I have a cam, valve job, and exhaust. Calen tweaked the stock carb. With these things done it's strong as hell. I would go with the cam over the carb. Just my opinion. I run 4100 rpm's all the time and it carries a load so much better. I run 28 with three people and gear.

I'm in the process of re-building another motor.

I'm doing the same thing that I did to my first one.

Its got lots of power.