After a leak became a drip last week, I replaced all the seals and gaskets on my crank case on my 36 Prodrive. After getting it all back together I finally ran it this morning and the thing still leaks. I spoke with Peck before reassembling it and he said he's heard of a few crank cases cracking along the high pressure oil port inside of the indention next to the PTO shaft. I cleaned the area well and searched for cracks with a flashlight and wasn't able to find one. But, after running my engine it started leaking from the indented area again. It only leaks once its been running for a few minutes and is good and hot. So, I think it may be a tiny hairline crack that expands when its hot and the oil pump forces the oil out of it. Has anyone experienced this before?

Here are my options:

1. Buy a new crank case ($330)
2. Buy a used crank case cover if one is available
3. Have the mystery crack welded (I have no idea where it is)
4. Fill the entire indented area full of anchoring epoxy and call it a day
5. Donate all of my huntin gear, lease, boat, motor, dog, gun, and truck to someone that can afford this because it never ends...

Get a new crankcase.

This is a common issue with Briggs engines.

So, you're saying that you don't want any of my hunting stuff?

The sumps have been known to crack, so have the blocks. You are certain it is not leaking at thr gasket, right? Could you post a pic and highlight where you think the leak is?

If its the sump, the best option would be to replace it.

Some pc7 or jb weld or something may help, may not. Depends if you can get a good hold. Even then, if its cracked, the crack will likely get bigger and the jb weld will not prevent that.

Not the best option, but if you know someone who is comfortable welding cast aluminum and will do it for free or cheap, it may be worth a shot. If you can access the crack and drill a hole slightly larger than the crack on both sides the weld it back up, it may hold forever. It may last a week... I know its not recommended to weld cast, but I had a kohler block welded up and as far as I know, its still running today.

Thanks CB. I'm gonna look into a new sump. I'm positive its not any of the gaskets or seals. I just replaced the PTO shaft oil seal, the Oil Pump cover o-ring, and the case gasket and used anaerobic sealant. It is definitely the indented part of the sump next to the PTO shaft. I shoved a paper towel in there while it was running, an oil tampon if you will, and it was oil soaked after 5 minutes of running. It wasn't residue or any left over oil since I cleaned everything well before reasembling it.

After reading many many posts about every brand of mud motor, and now owning one of my own, I guess I just need to accept that its just the nature of the beast. Good thing I'm good with tools and like working on it.

Yes PD has seen it but it is a Briggs issue of poor casting IMO on some sumps. They changed mine out. And no you cant take a pic of it due to location while motor is mounted. It is located between the drain plug and shaft up in the recess of the sump. To check, clean really good with some degreaser and after it dries cram a clean rag up into the recess. Run for a few minutes under load and then pull the rag. You will see oil on top of the rag indicating the crack location at the top of the recess. It would appear to be a seal but that is just because the oil is running down the sump wall to the shaft. Mine only leaked after the motor heated up and the crack would open up. Would not leak cold. Just get a new sump. Another member here had the same issue recently and it took a few seal changes before I convinced him of what the real problem was.

Yep, mine's got the same symptoms. You can find me in therapy... NSFW forum.

Poker, did you replace yours yourself? I'm gonna order a new one but need to know if it comes with the case gasket as well. Do you or anyone else know? I want to make sure I get all the parts ordered.