I got a call from my dad tonight and he want me to locate the control box from the tiller handle to the grab bar. Does anyone know how many wire go to the control box and what gauge they are. He want to bring it over Sunday so I want to get everything on Friday to do this

On mine there is 8 and they look to be 14ga.

That would be a slick setup. Please post photos of the new arrangement when you are finished.

Why don't you just add another trim switch on the grab bar?

I am moving it because he likes to stand while running and when picking up decoys have the momentary switch there would be easier for him. He also finds it annoying having to reach down to engage and disengage the clutch. I am going to be cutting the plate on the tiller and leaving the choke there because we have one of the pin pullers on order and that will go on the other side

It is 16 wire. Be carefull in just adding more switches versus relocating. I believe you may run into backfeed issues adding more switches. I will have to check the Prodrive schematics and get back to you.

Well got everything done but there was a change, grab bar is gone and now there is a seat installed. This was a long battle between my dad and my brother as I did not really care which way it went. It took me a few days working on it at night after work. I pulled all of the connectors out of the plug at the engine and installed new wires long enough to reach the new location of the control box. What amazed me was that the plug is not a sealed plug. I have new Deutsch waterprrof plugs on order to replace them after the season is over as there was quite a bit of corrosion after just 1 year of use.
The fun part was trying to figure out away to not have to run large 12 quage wire all the way to the control box for the trim switch. I ended up figuring it out and now have just 3 small 16 gauge wire going from the switch to a water proof outdoor electrical box that I installed 2 30 amp Bosch relays in and mounted it next to the pump. I will post pictures of the setup tomorrow as my daughter has the camera with the card in it.

I think you are going to be in for a surprise. Those hydraulic pumps can draw in the upwards of 90 amps. I think you will cook your relays. I installed solenoids capable of handling the amperage. If you run through the amperage/distance specs through a wire calculator you will find that 10 ga. wire should be used. 12 gauge wires are going to create greater resistance making the wires get really hot.

First off I have been doing automotive wiring and trouble shooting since 1987 so there is no probelm there. Second the stock wiring from pro-drive was 12 gauge going to the trim switch and my relays have a higher rating than the factory switch. Third I actually know how to use meters and my amp meter was not even close to reading 30 amps during up and down measurements. The only time it came close is if you held the switch after reaching full travel of the trim.
I did not say I ran 12 gauge I said it was fun trying to figure out how to run them. In actuality I used the factory yellow and Blue wires that come off of the pump and ran them to my relay pack that is mounted right next to the pump so I am lucky if they are 18". I also have a 10 gauge power wire going to the relay pack that is about 24" long with a 30 amp MAXI Blade fuse on it. If you do not know what a MAXI fuse is it is a very large version of the small blade fuses normally found in the fuse box of your car.
If the pump was drawing any where near 90 amps this fuse would be blowing any time you hold the switch when you reached max travel on it. I am also pretty sure that Prodrive would have had a ton of people complaning about thier switches going up in flames if it was trying to handle 90 amps of current draw.
I do not know if you have a Pro-Drive or not but the way it is factory wired is the power going to the trim switch goes directly to the starter solenoid BAT terminal and this wire is a 12 gauge and the pump wires (Yellow and Blue 12 gauge wires) go from the switch to the pump and were probably 2-3 feet long. The 4th wire which was ground on the switch went the the engine block and was also a 12 gauge. So I have actually shortened all the wire there by reducing any type of voltage drop that may have accured.
It is a fairly easy thing to do

Here are some pictures of the set up. Next is to install the tiller pin puller when it arrives

One last picture

I dont understand the reason in relocating it there? I thought you said you moved it becuase he stands up while driving and doesent like bending down to reach the control box.... isint it lower now?

I never understood moving it. I always hear newer owners wanting to move it. If you put enough hours on it, it becomes second nature.

x2... When im in the pro drive and picking up decoys or just putting around, I just grab ahold of the control box and press the bump, I dont even touch the handle

Originally it was but this was a compromise between my dad who likes to stand to see and my brother who likes to sit, me i could have carred less. The seat height was the next thing that took awhile. but they worked it out. I am just the one who gets to figure it out and do the work. When sitting it is right at your finger tips.

Main issue I see now is you got hand two hands to drive the boat now. If you're bumping it and want to turn all the way to the right can you reach it? What if a hippo bites one of your arms off?

Better make sure you don't put your hand/fingers on the rail and hit something like a tree.

You can turn the motor all the way left and right and still reach the control box. The box is space off of the boat about 3". You can put you hand around the box and not touch the side of the boat. We used it the last two weekends duck hunting and it has worked great. It nice to be able to lower the unit to get going and then raise it while under way and not have to reach back and work the trim