For those with the billet 308, how do you have them set? Mine is ordered but I'm not sure what settings do what. I kind of want some preparation in knowing the different settings before I get it. I have a cdi so I want what's best for that rpm range and all the way up to 4700. Thanks for any help.

You are goin to need a degree wheel and make sure they send a cam spec card wich is sometimes hard to get. Start reading up on using a degree wheel. ... And a dial indicator

Sounds good will. He said he was going to set it for me and have it ready to install. I just wondered what other guys specs were. I asked him to set it so it would pull hard all the way through til there was nothin left, and he said he could take care of it. Just wanted to see more info on specs I guess. Hopefully my motor is together before next weekend. The cam won't be here til the middle of next week.

I talked to Al the other day and he liked the billet cams but thought they were way too heavy. Guess time will tell on them.

I gotcha. If I remember correctly he said he would set it for 4 degrees out. Hopefully I get it, ready to install, and already set.

Typically +6 is what you want for a CDI with 4700 limited coils. This is generally speaking.

Not to high jack but does a +4 cam mean it makes its power higher in the rpm range?


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Yeah I can see that's in the neighborhood. a +4/+5 .308 is a good all around cam with broad powerband.

Yours is 2 degrees at the cam, 4 at the crank. It's a 310 plus 4. It was supposed to be a 308 plus 5....but isky happened.

Flint, can you get your hands on a degree wheel and dial indicator?

Anyone remember how much difference a tooth makes on the cam? Maybe he could advance an entire tooth and bring the powerband down? I thought it was four degrees for some reason, which may work. If it's much more than that, it'll probably over shoot.

CB I ain't mad at ya over this cam but it just don't have the ass I want til way up on top, when you do get up there it screams though. Totally different engine. Turdish on the bottom end but could be carb tuning too. Bout to sell it cheap if somebody wants a top end screamer of a motor.


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Either way, it's way too much for what I was suggesting.

If it was ground on stock centerlines, and then only advanced 4 degrees, then the intake centerline is way off. Most are running around the 102 neighborhood on the intake, and stock is 118.

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When someone tells dyno they want the 308 grind and they want to advance the cam 4 degrees, well for their 308 grind dyno has already moved centerlines around from what stock would be. So you are advancing on what dyno has already changed. You cant just send isky or web a cam and say I want X duration and X lift and advance 4 degrees on the stock centerlines, as you are not going to even be in the ballpark of the centerlines moat of the successful cams are running.

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It apparently doesn't really matter what you order at all with isky cause he's gonna send whatever he wants anyway, thus the reason we're having this conversation at all.

The 310 grind isky uses is the pretty much the same exact grind dyno uses on their mod1. Same for the 308. I believe the duration is slightly different, but not much. I'd have to look it all up again to verify. The advance was done off the already changed centerlines.

I ordered 4 308's +5 for the briggs and two 310+4 for the kawi. I received 2 310+4 for the kawi, 1 310+4 for the briggs (same specs banded is running on his kawi, and I think it's what bug is running now too), and then I received 3-308+5 cams. Without degreeing the cam in, no way to know for sure what it is, but it wasn't (should not have been) ground off stock centerlines.

Doesn't look like isky has the specs on his website anymore, but they were there when I ordered all this stuff a year ago. I looked at all the numbers next to what dyno has on their website, and IIRC, the only difference was like a degree of duration.

The dyno "mod1" (aka 310) is also on a 108 centerline. The dyno is 347.6 duration. Same lift, almost the same duration, same centerline. I don't know how to read all the rest of the shit, but my "help" said they were effectively the same cams.

It's really not a bad cam. I remember the second time I had it out the weather was in the mid 60s and I was running around the 30mph mark with hooks in my boat. This cam absolutely rips on the top end but I just can't dial my boat in right to where I can turn 4200+ rpm with out the prop blowing out or having terrible tiller torque.


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You aren't the only one running that cam. I do think most that picked this cam on purpose (especially with the +4 advance) did so knowing they had enough compression to overcome the shortcomings on the bottom end, but we talked about that.

I know you aren't mad or anything, I just wanted to clear up what exactly it is and clarify that it is essentially the same cam as the mod1. Me and you talked a lot before you got it, you knew what it was. We knew it wasn't what I ordered, but we knew what it was.

The OGs deck heads over .050

With those specs it's advanced 3 degrees over dynos standard Mod1. Tightening the LSA by advancing the intake a little more than the exhaust helps too.

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One needs to degree every cam no matter where it came from, all of the grinders have been know to "be off a little"