Back story, bought a $200 longtail and had a chance to wrench on it heres what ive done and results:

Cleaned it up this weekend. Oil looks terrible a mix of milky sludge and maybe water....
Cleaned up the gas tank, and had it looking pretty good when done.
Cleaned up the carb and was surprised it looked as well as it did.

Installed new plug, and oil.

Finally managed to get it to fire up and MAN WAS SHE ROUGH. That sucker damn near jumped across my shop. Would not rev up at all and wanted to die at idle. Was running rich as hell and had oil coming out of exhaust. Pulled valve cover and found pieces of hard material in there i assume was rings??? but didnt look like an fail rings ive seen before. Ran a comp test after this and was only seeing mid 50's psi. These have a comp release built into them so this test wont tell me much. Need to do a LDT test to see if rings are shot. from what i have read those initial numbers are what most see on these engines. I took off the rocker arms and rods and ran the comp test again and saw the same numbers. Im no expert on the comp release mechanism but i assume it keeps the valves off their seat long enough for easy starting? IF that is the case when i bypass the cam by remove the rods then that would rule out the comp release mechanism for piss poor comp numbers? aside from valve leakage. I did tap on each valve to attempt to seat them if there was carbon buildup. As shitty as this thing ran i would not be surprised at all if there was a lot more problems

Also need to run back through the carb and make sure my air bleeder lines are clear. The blow by thru the exhaust though has me thinking this will get a new engine soon, but who knows could have just been from sitting around outside for so long.

These carbs have no air/fuel screw so aside from going over the carb again, the lack of throttle response has me baffled. I bypassed the air filter for this test to eliminate one thing at least. Plug was fouled pretty good in a short time.

So what do you all think? lack of power, wont rev up, oil from exhaust, engine knock and jumping (hard to tell this thing was bouncing so bad) and 50 psi on comp test. IM thinking $119 predator engine

With the pushrods out the cylinder can't grab a fresh breath of air and compression numbers will still be low. For the money I would just grab another engine anyway.

Yeah, just get a new motor, man. That thing is shot. Get the Harbor Freight 20% coupon from most anywhere online, and you'll have a new motor for $99.

Yeah, I hate the stock carbs on these things. I put a 22mm Mikunni clone on mine. I bought my motor with the intention of hot-rodding it.

Thats exactly what i was thinking until last night. Figured i would go ahead and see what the LDT had to say, figuring it would be a huge number.... well i was wrong. held a steady %15 at 6psi no matter how many times i did it. with both valves and rings leaking.

So i decided to go back over the carb one more time. Checked gap on plugs and cleaned it up, reset lash. Realized i may have added a bit more oil than i should have first go around and decided to drain a little. The oil was full of gas. so i changed out the oil again for fresh.

figured why not before i go drop $100 on a new engine see what happens.

Turned on the fuel, put in on choke pulled the cord and BAM fired right up. Moved it off choke and she idled just fine, no jumping, no rocking nothing just ran smooth. Went to accelerate and had immediate response. The only issue was it was wanting to surge at higher rpms and ride the gov. I plan to fix that this evening. That and it had a minor oil leak ill need to backtrack to figure out if it was from when i drained a little or what.

Ive read all kinds of tricks for a surging engine anywhere from adding a return spring to the gov arm to a zip tie on the gov spring to basically bypass it (ill pry go this route) yes i know i can get upwards of 5k rpms this way but i dont plan to run it full throttle with no load.

any thoughts? the fuel in the oil bothers me a bit other than that acting normal

Don't sweat the gov bounce with no load. Glad it's running good.... I have never seen a Ldown tester calibrated to 6 psi

Well added a spring zip tie to the main spring and a spring off the gov arm and all my surging issues are gone. Engine starts up first pull and fires hard through the power cycle. Need to get a tiny tach on it to keep my rpms in check now.

Added the MSR throttle handle that huck finn posted a while back but it does not have near enough through to go from idle to WOT. What is everyone using for throttle levers?