That smoke can be a few things. That line resembles the crankcase vent line that falls off the valve spread. You can complete a breakdown test or pressure check, however, on the off chance that your valves aren't situated appropriately, it could give you a bogus perusing in the feeling of what you are searching for.

Where is the smoke coming from? It must originate from the burning chamber OR the sump itself. A blown head gasket won't do this, it will spill around the head as much as it would leave the elastic line. Smoke will take the easiest course of action. A spilling valve seal could permit burning gasses to back up around the valve stem and into the top portion of the heads. I've never observed this, yet that is one plausibility for ignition gasses to enter the "valve spring/rocker arm zone" of the heads. There is an oil channel in the heads that enables oil to deplete back to the sump. Consequently, this permits entry "to and from" the sump. On the off chance that your oil cooler is stopped, the oil is being "cooked" inside the sump consequently making bounty smoke. Presently back to pressure/spill down test. In the event that your valves are situated appropriately and you can affirm that, at that point, the main plausibility would be harmed rings, which would permit burning gasses to spill by, enter the sump and hence vent out.

Additionally, turn the senator up additional. 2011 is a CDI engine and has 4350 loops introduced (stock) except if they are swapped out for the 4700 curls (secondary selling, however, are currently stock). 4000 is excessively low. Turn it up and let the loops get it.

Pb blaster, wait a day, pb blaster again, tap it with a hammer, wait a day, repeat. No joke, took me a few days on my dad's engine.

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Well after some work its finished! I found a used lower unit not too far from the house, and picked it up for a decent price. Decided to pull the power head and switch a couple of things out , like going to a 50amp stator instead of the 20 that didn't work to start off. Also this one has the hydraulic trim , instead of the winch that was on the other lower unit. All in all it wasn't too hard, just time consuming. I'm going to take it out for a run this weekend and see if it'll hold together (lol) and hope the performance is better than last time. Thanks again for the help and input. Yall made this a lot easier than it could have been.

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You swapped the stator, but did you swap the flywheel and regulator?

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I hope you did all this as well, Like Russ mentioned. Read down to deadbird8's post and pics.

He doesn't have to do any of that if he bought the other flywheel. Most of what dead bird is talking about had to do with modifying the existing stuff to work with the different charging systems.

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