well time to hop my motor up a bit but want a lil feedback before

I know majority of guys running evt stage 1 on their prodrive and getting good preformance out of them

then I know a few having lil daddy 50hp combo running the cam instead of the carb and intake.

and my question is do the guys running the muniki carb have any problems with them, like from having to play with jetting and ect. Since I need a motor to be modded but still be reliable and not always have to worry about having to tweak it while on the water, or the few cold mornings we have down here affect the way my motor runs.

just want to hear a lil feedback from the MM gods and some users on both sides of the fence,

carb/intake vs cam whats the better choice?

I might start out small heads and advance timing, exhaust(already have) or go all out.

Only prob I had with my carb was adjusting the air/fuel screw so it wouldnt load up and die when i tried to engage the clutch and take off. Gave it some more air and never looked back. The mikuni is as easy if not easier to adjust and change jets than a stock carb.

In my opinion I would do internal work first, (ex. cam, heads) then if its not enough add the carb.

get the whole set up.....

come on now ...... here is my thinkin for what its worth.. internal mods will improve performance ... but if you dont add fuel and air to the combo you really didnt help your mods to do the most for you ... but my opionion is just that ... talk to drake 1 he knows mod's..

Hunter, i have mods on the mind now too....


What speeds are you seeing now?

If you gotta change the case gasket, it's a no-brainer, stick a cam in it, put it back together and see what you end up with.

With a stock carb, I could run 32/33/34 pretty much all the time by myself(that was a bigger cam than stock), the addition of a EVT intake, slightly bigger cam & 45mm carb gave me considerable gains, 3 to 6 mph and tremendous load capability.

You don't need the cam to carry a load at 28-30mph. The cam does not even come into play to well after 4000 rpms. You want a motor that will pull leave the cam stock and build compression (but not too much) you want to go fast, stick a big cam in the thing with more compression and move your power band up into the upper rpm range. The cam is needed for top end only. We could hook ropes together and have a pull off and the motor with the stock cam and Mikuni will drag around the motor with the bigger cam and stock intake and carb. You gona stick the cam in it you should only open her up once. Put the good connecting rods, pistons and balance the crank with them. Trust me I have been through this more than twice.

Tell em" Delta! Down here in Louisiana we eat Rails. And by the way, don't rub his paint off when he is stuck. Hell, do it while he is running!!

C'mon Rail.................I got shit to do!

I decided on heads and cam to start with, and the rest will just follow depending on how much more $$$$ i wanna dump into it.


It's not that I want to go fast, Fast is nice though, I just dont want them 17 mile runs doing 23 again.

I heard Rail moved to Utah and bought an airboat.

SandyMans ~





Yore avatar girl 'minds me when we was kids and we would have waterballoon fights !!!!

It's ok for me to chase you in that little canoe right now young grasshopper for the simple reason that it is EVT designed parts on that hot rod that has it screaming. I will come over soon enough but a day in the woods with the old man chasing Gobblers that weekend takes a slight edge in priority. I will get down there sometime after that to ride with ya'll.

Brice... you're by far the fastest man on the water, and for that I commend you! It takes alot of skill to build a motor like that... alot more than I will ever have. I've got some questions for you...

1. Isn't your boat pretty light? I mean, like flat bar for braces, really short, etc...? How much does that thing weigh? And another thing... would you even run half of 42.7 in a stump field?

2. Are you running a speed prop? By that, I mean do you sacrifice some bottom end power to go fast? The reason I'm asking- I have a friend with a stock Gatortail. A couple years ago he had a prop that would run really fast, but wouldn't even get on plane with 3 grown men in the boat. 16x54 or something like that. They got a different prop for him, and he's doing good now. Just a question.

I really don't care about going fast, you couldn't go 25 most of the places I go.

Crews ~ You real ..... and real cool ....... but you better watch it ...... the "BigEye" is watchin' you !!!!! ...... with both eyes !!!!

LM'sBO !!!!!!

speed is important to me til you get to the bad stuff, my boat runs ok (just ok) empty w me and a full tank i run 22ish in deep water. I got an exhaust kit which helped a bit. like most whats killin me is a load 3 guys and gear drops me to 15-17mph. im lookin at the evt kits and i keep getting diffrent replys on what will give me speed and how much.

If the boat is stuck runnin low 20's fine but i gotta do that with a load. I hate droppin $800-3500 (depending on the kit) in a motor for 2mph gains. somebody give me the real deal on these mod kits....please. i know my boats got enough aluminum on for two boats but there's guys out there runnin hides gettin 30mph............WHAT UP???

well?

Real deal is this.

Stage I carry a load at what you can mpty now. Gain on average 3-5mph.

Stage II carry a load faster than a Stage I. Gain average of 5-8mph.

Stage III cary a load even faster than the other two. Gain average of 7-10mph.

All kits will have an increase in hole shot and throttle response. Average speeds all depend on the style boat that is being ran and what kind of shape the bottom is in.

I have the horsepower there when I need it. I do not have to run my rig WFO to carry a load but the juice is there when I want to cut loose and have fun. With the increase in power comes more prop that can be ran at lower rpms. This equates to less strain on the engine an less gas consumption. Last load I carried was the last weekend of duck season. I had 4 225lb men, 2 75lb labs, 12 gallons of fuel, 5 shotguns, 4 gear bags that were not lite, gun box full of junk and 4 dozen weighted keel deeks. I was spinning a 12X13 Hopkins Tulip. Boat jumps up on step and stayed on step at 3700 rpms running 26-27mph in a 1' chop through stump infested Toledo Bend. With that prop and load I let her rip on a clean channel and pushed her to 4500 rpms an 33mph. My boat is an 1854 GTB and the motor was a 31HP Stage III without the heads being decked. We will shave the heads some and run her again. I would guess at east another 1-2mph gain after that. Top speed empty on the first run in deep water was 38.2mph. No doubt that with a little more tweak on the heads and some shallow water she will creep over 40mph. I will have her running 42mph+ when I go to Caddo in June. I hope this narrative sheds some light on what these kits are about.

thats just on EVT stages swamp... BPS is a lil different and hoyts are a lil diferent too. i wanted more low end so i went w/ hoyts setup.. and also hes not but under an hr from me isntead of 4 hrs away from evt

i got a 3 man hide, so at least a stage 1? from mud buddy or evt? what about the carb and intake option? thanks for the run down

Hide is a big boat to push. we have done 3 with Stage I kits and all seen an improvement but would like a little more. Stage II would be the minimum I would do on one of those.