Ive got a 23 mini and need to replace the seals on my outdrive. Ive got the seals in hand. Ive got a new gear Im putting on it while Im in there too, but I cant find any instructions on the website in the customer area. I have a parts diagram but that doesnt show me the steps or things to watch out for. I really dont want to screw up in the middle of season just hammering away. Has anyone done this and can lend some instructions, help, or lead me to a thread already on it? Ive searched and no luck. Thanks for any help, its greatly appreciated.

I posted this on another site.

[QUOTE=deadbird8;8418943]These instructions assume you have a newer style lower unit. There is a diagram of the out drive parts on the MB customer page. Here is the link:


Change the Gear:
You take out the 2 allen head set screws out of the old gear. Insert one of them into the odd hole, and as you tighten it up the gear will push off of the taper lock. When it comes off you will need to put spacers behind the gear so the taper lock will push off of the shaft (they usually are not very cooperative in coming off). I found a gear puller makes the job easier. Putting a fiber taper wedge in the end of the slot of the taper lock and slightly tapping it in can make is really easy to come off (be careful not to split the taper lock). Once you get the taperlock off of the shaft, put it into the new gear and start the 2 allen head bolts finger tight only, then slide onto the shaft/keyway. When it bottoms out tighten it up fully, then remove the bolts one at a time, put (red) Loctite on them and re-install.

Bearings and Seals on the Outdrive:
The sleeve/race in the front usually has loctite on it, but it just slips on the shaft. If you are replacing the bearings- its worth doing all four of them and all the seals/races while you have it apart. Remove the snap ring and seal behind the gear. Remove the rear seal cap- Note its reverse threaded on the lower unit.

Heat up the front sleeve/race with a torch and use a wood block to protect the end of the shaft and drive the shaft from the front out the back. The inner bearing race on the front bearings will drive the front seal race off. The rear bearing pair will come out the back with the shaft. The rear seal race (bushing in the diagram) is loctited on and screws on the shaft, apply heat to loosen the loctite and use a pipe wrench to remove it while steading the shaft on the hex part where the prop goes. Don't worry about scarring it, you should replace it along with the seals. Use a tapered dowl or equivalent that will go through the lower unit from the back and catch the race on the front bearing pair to push them out the front.

I have used a 1" PVC pipe to drive the rear bearings back on the shaft up to the shoulder on the shaft. Install the shaft and bearings into the rear of the lower unit and use a larger piece of PVC (2" outer diameter) to drive the bearings into the lower unit. Apply loctite and use a strap wrench or wrap the rear race/bushing with a leather glove and use channel locks to screw it back on- be sure not to scar the race/bushing. Stand the lower unit up and drive the front bearings back in (put your prop nut on to protect the threads at the end of the shaft). Apply loctite on the sleave and slide it on. Install the new front seal and snap ring. With the rear seal cap still off, put your grease gun in the rear zerk and pump grease into the shaft until you see it come through the rear bearings. Then apply some aircraft gasket sealer to the threads on the rear seal cap and screw it on (remember its reverse threaded). Put your gear back on and reinstall the lower unit and set your belt tension.

Reassembly:
-If you are using the spaghetti gasket put it in place in the groove in the outdrive housing. Cut it to length with the connection at the top of the housing. You can use a few dots of silicone sealant to hold it in place.
-If using sealant only, apply a 1/8 inch bead of Sealant (Either RTV gasket maker or clear Marine grade sealant) to lower outdrive housing (not the casing). Be sure to apply around the bolt holes. Apply Blue Loctite to the screws for the lower housing.

Put the outdrive up in place, making sure to mesh the gear with the belt properly and get the 5 bolts holding the outdrive started by hand, but do not tighten them yet. Reach in and grasp the belt drive, and squeeze it together, thus raising the lower outdrive about 1/16" in the bolt holes. Now tighten the bolts down and torque to 130 inch pounds. (The new sealer may squish out onto the outside of your drive. It's easier to remove it after it has dried.)
Next you will have to adjust your belt tension. Loosen the center bolt holding the outdrive casing up so you put tension back on the belt. Remove the outdrive casing center vent plug and follow the belt tensioning instructions. Remember turning the vertical adjustment bolt on the back of the outdrive casing 1/2 turn will increase the belt tension about 2 pounds. A used belt should be tensioned no more than 16 lbs. Remember to apply loctite to the clutch cover bolts too.

After you get it all back together, remove the side allen bolt in the outdrive and pump grease into the outdrive until you see it come out the side hole. Then start the motor and run it in gear at idle for a couple of minutes until the grease heats up and stops coming out the side hole. Reinstall the allen bolt in the outdrive and go drive it like you stole it.

I posted a couple of threads with pictures on the MB forum for replacing the rear seals and reinstalling the outdrive. The forum is a great source for product specific help.[/QUOTE]

DB's post was extremely helpful when mine went kaput.