I ordered powertrim and I know it comes with one switch. I would like to mount a second switch. Does anyone know where to buy a 2nd switch?

Pro-Drive

Muddyriver you can't hook two prodrive switches up, they ground each other out I just went through this. I wanted a switch on the motor and one on my grab bar. I got two of the mini rocker switches and a contactor for a Warn RT30 winch. it is about $180.00 plus shipping from rocky mountain. This setup works perfect. My friend used two PD switches and put a 3way toggle to turn one switch off to use the other. Hope this helps.

The dealer that use to be near me was able to put 2 switches on, but didn't know how he did it. He is no longer in service. The 3-way toggle isn't a bad idea. I really don't want to spend 180 dollars for a switch. Can you explain how they short each other out.

I just thought about hooking them in parrellal not series. Any thoughts.

You can wire in 2 switches w/o putting a toggle in...u just have to use 2 relays.

Sounds like a call to KP and get the addt'l one ordered!

Yep, but if I understand u right, you have to "toggle " b/w the two switches with your setup to only use one at a time?

The contactor has 2 -- 4 pole relays. I wired in 2 -- 5 pole relays to "trick the system". No grounding issues now. I have the stock switch on the motor and another stock switch on my grab bar. No toggle switch between and i can use them both whenever needed.

Powertrim came in yesterday, but my 2nd switch didn't come. Does anyone know how to wire in these relays that I'm going to have to buy? Things are going well so far. I'm only got a couples hours into it and that's with a 4 year old helping. Would have finished, but he broke my only 3/16 drill bit. So I didnt get a chance to finish. Only wiring and hooking up the cylinder.

Does anyone know how to wire 2 switches for the new prodrive power trim? I know you need 2 relays (spdt) 5-prong.

bump!

muddy this is what we did. this was on a on a new gtr. i believe the pro drive is the same. went to a boat dealer i know and bought the trim relay harness out of a merc. tilt and trim. also got the trim switch out of the cowling. cost 10 bucks. wired in the relay pack into the wiring of my boat. the harness has provisions for power and ground. ran two wires back to the trim wires on the motor blue is up green is down. again the wires blue and green are already on the harness you just bought. cut hole in my engine cowling and installed the merc small trim switch .so i can trim up and down with out reaching foward to the existing switch on the tiller handle. installed another switch on the grab bar used a steering wheel trim switch i think ebayed it for 19.99 than i wired it in to my half box and used a trolling motor plug that way i could twist it and remove it if i wanted to remove my grab bar. plug was 12.99. took apart the trim cover on the tiller handle on my gtr and un plugged the ground going to the switch. no longer needed because you will be grounding thru the trim harness you just installed. went to parts store and bought two mini fuse wire harnesses. and two mini diodes that gm uses in there late model pickups. wire in the two harneses one on each side of the switch heat shrunk the wiring and installed the diodes.the use of the diodes prevents power trying to back feed into the other side of the switch. now you can install as many switches as you want. each trim switch you install will require you to run power to the switch and two wires back to your engine trim switch wires. i now have a trim switch on my motor.tiller handle. grab bar. and on the bow of the boat. hope this helps you out. total cost 100.00 to 150.00 bones at the most.

Just wanted to let everyone know that helped me that I got the two switches up and running. I ditched the switch that came with the unit, bought a merc power trim relay set and ordered 2 momentary switches from Grainger. Everything is up and running. I'm a little worried about the longivity of the relays the hyd. motor runs 30amps @ 50 psi and 60amps @ 1250psi. it peaks out at 90amps. Too large for a normal fuse panel so I did instal the heat breaker that comes with the original power trim switch.

Can't wait to get it out this week as see how it performes during a field test!! Thanks for everyones help.

Wait, what heat breaker? I'm wondering if I'm missing something on my system.

When you buy the power trim package you will see this black heat shrinked item that goes to the positive. What that is essentially protector so if things get too hot becuase of amp draws over 60 this heat sink will stop the system until it cools down. It's a reusable fuse. talking to KP I found out that the pumpe can draw up to 90 amps if it gets above 1300psi. I was wondering why I was blowing 30 amp fuses. Well that is it. I hooked the heat sink up to the battery and i"m off and running.

FYI. I love the power trim. It's easy to use and I think will make driving much better in the mud. I also am glad I spent the time figurign out the 2 switch deal. I reall like the one next to the seat.

When I ordered mine, I'm pretty sure they just said to use the same wiring that I had for the winch. I didn't get any wires or breaker. I'll have to give them a call and get one. Thanks

here is pics of where i mounted my switches. the one on the grab bar is wired into a twist and lock trolling motor plug it has a coiled cord. that way i can remove the grab bar for installing cover on boat. and it also allows me to move grab bar to the back mounts for stand up steering. or move to the foward mounts that allows me to set and run motor. also putting one on the bow of boat. and the one on the blower housing i like alot it is real handy.you can click on photos for a better view.photo (4).JPGtttphoto (3).JPGphoto (2).JPG

Very nice CJ. Inventive. I'll try and get some picks of mine. I used it this week up north on a fishing trip. Loved the power trim. and the location of the switches worked our great.