what can i put on the propeller itself to get it off? i have a big pipe wrench and some cheaters...but that sob's on there good!

I always put a pipe wrench on the shaft at the top to secure it...

Then used a 2x4 3 to 4 foot long wedged between the blades for
torque - you might need to notch the 2x4 to clear the shaft center...

With a 2x4 as a cushion between prop and hammer - whack it a few
times with a small nailing hammer to help it break free....

If you have to - propane torch - put enough heat on the center hub
to cause your spit to boil - not explode - then heave-ho on the 2x4...

Excessive heat is bad for everything and a last resort....

Use grease when you reassemble....

That's how mine was when I first took it off. I used a big pipe wrench fought it for like two hours before I got it off just spray some good penetrating oil and start fightin it. When you put it back on tighten it all the way up then back it off about a 1/4 turn and you won't have that problem anymore.

If the prop is worn out the shaft probally has alot of wear on it also (cracked, bent, ect.). I would change both the shaft and prop then you don't have to worry about getting the old prop off.

when i changed mine out to a new prop, i worked on it for days, heating it spraying oil on it and had a pipe wrench with about a 4' cheater, there was too much torsion in the shaft. i had to pull the shaft, put it in a vise at work, it took a 48" pipe wrench me and my buddy (370#) about an hour to work it off. surprisingly, the threads on the shaft didn't gall, nor did the threads in the prop. ran a tap and die over them to be sure, everythings good now.

if you can pull the shaft and place it in a vise, that would be my thinking, just make sure the jaws on the vise dont slip, i had to do some dressing on the shaft with some fine grit emerycloth.

We made a tool out of a piece of 1 1/4" x 1/4" flat stock with a 13/16" hole drilled in it about 4" back from end , to go over shaft and through blades. Flat stock is about 4' long. You can put 1 1/2 pipe over end of it for cheater. Be careful, could be dangerous if shaft breaks or universal joint breaks or shears key.

I just changed mine... Had to use wrench and 2x4 to turn it beat the you know what out of it slowly turning the nut... I had limited tools next time I will have giga's setup... not a bad idea to knotch a 2x4 to hold the propeller usually when you take them off they are worn down and sharp! I'd wear gloves... my hands are still healing

If your prop is worn to the point of no return…I would just pull the whole shaft out and throw it all away…a new shaft is only like $50…that’s what I did. I worked on mine For Ever! Never got that thing to move…and the way I figure it…two weeks of jacking with the dam thing, and about 5 hours total, heating, twisting, cussing, and praying…its not worth my time…so I called Go-Devil and they told me to Chunk It All and they sent me a new shaft, seals, prop, nuts and washers…

Just changed mine 20min ago. FREEZE OFF!!!!! Go get some. I had a friend holding a pipe wrench an the back nut and I had a 2x4 and hammer beating on it and nothing, so I got the old trusty freeze off and sprayed it on for 45sec and with one hit of da hammer it started spinning off. That stuff works! I use it all da time yea.

i would highly recommend anti-seeze when removing and putting back on. you can get it at any auto parts store, its a graphite lubricant you apply it with a brush, that is attatched to the lid and it works wonderful and helps to prevent the prop and prop nut from seezing up again

I use LPS Nickel Anti-Seize. It has higher washout resistance.

You could make yourself a prop tool with a nut, piece of pipe, and two pieces of flatbar. Weld a nut onto a piece of pipe that will fit over the shaft. Weld the flatbar to the pipe, one on each side facing counter-clockwise when looking at the nut. When you slide the pipe over the shaft and rotate it CC the flatbars should fit against the backside of the blades. Stick a rod through the u-joint to stop the shaft from turning. Make sure the rod is not on the same side of the cross as the zerk is. Put a socket and impact on it and it will come right off.