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 putting different brand prop on scavenger? 
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MMT Pro Member

Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:46 am
Posts: 81
Post putting different brand prop on scavenger?
has anyone ever tried to put a different type of prop on a scavenger? i love that prop for running through sand and gravel rocks and stumps but in true mud or just open water it can be slow... i think other props on the market would be more efficient. has anyone over tried this? its a 13 hp honda motor i have been looking into having a kid build me a motor (he builds basically a beavertail or go devil style clone and does a great job at it) but i would love to mod this one a little anyone ever tried switching props? pros and cons?


Mon Sep 28, 2009 3:13 pm
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:46 am
Posts: 81
Post Re: putting different brand prop on scavenger?
does anyone see anything wrong with this idea?


Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:49 am
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Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2009 12:01 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Ft. Bragg, NC
Post Re: putting different brand prop on scavenger?
PM DeathMetalDukk. If I remember correctly, he has been modding his scavenger some.


Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:44 pm
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Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:42 pm
Posts: 24
Post Re: putting different brand prop on scavenger?
Dont the prop spin the other way on a Scavenger?


Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:33 pm
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Joined: Sat Jun 27, 2009 11:50 pm
Posts: 3777
Location: Knotts Island, North Carolina.
Post Re: putting different brand prop on scavenger?
Unfortunately the prop does spin opposite, plus the shaft bore and keyway are totally different, so Scavenger really stuck us with having to buy one of their farmhand looking props. You could flip another prop around, but if it had heavy cup it would be facing the wrong way, plus you still have to get a machine shop to bore the threads out to 3/4" smooth and drill a keyway. The slowness of it actually comes from the poor skeg/cavitation plate design. I cut mine off, re-welded the cavitation plate back on with a more streamline shape (no gawdy bracket and 2" wide rounded skeg with bolts sticking out) and left the skeg completely off, it steers no different with the skeg gone. That huge skeg drags mud and they both grab grass bigtime, so weld the cavitation plate directly to the shaft, grinding the welds smooth on the front and cutting the shape to flow smoothly off the shaft, rather than have sheet metal "ears" sticking out like it has now to grab stuff. The cavitation plate will still slow you down in grass, but without it you'll never keep the prop under the water, and it won't get good water flow through the prop so you'll just sit there wound up high blowing bubbles. I welded a triangular peice of steel vertically like a fin connecting the shaft to the bottom side of the plate for strength, so it doesn't drag at all. I did all of this and gained about 6-8 mph in the grass.

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Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:49 pm
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