I have a 2010 GTR35 with a side console and am having trouble with it firing. When I turn the key to crank it over, I get a hard click. I have to keep bumping it over (hard clicks) and eventually it will go; this happens when it is warmed up too. It sounds like a dead battery in a vehicle when it clicks. I cleaned all of the battery connections and put the volt meter to the battery. It drops slightly (down to 12.32v) when cranking, so it doesn't appear to be a battery issue. Wires are all connected to the key switch. There was a bit of blue corrosion, but I think I got it cleaned off. There is fuel in the filter. I am looking for suggestions on what to try next. Solenoid?

starter solenoid. if you jump it across with a screwdriver and it fires right up, you know your problem

Or tap with hammer

My brothers GTR has the exact same issue, his is side console setup as well. We have changed the solenoid in the past and it did not improve anything. I thought this was common thing???

I thought this was about a group of people that own GTR's...LOL


Most liberals seem to suffer from the same mental condition....it's called stupidity!

You can add a relay to solenoid,Or run a larger wire from key switch to solenoid.That happens when solenoid gets a little age on it.

Think the wire loses to much current through the long console wiring?

Or what type relay and how you hooking it up?

Sounds like starter is sticking

I cleaned the yellow wire tab on the bottom of the solenoid. Cleaned the ignition switch and kill switch tabs. Tapped on the solenoid with a hammer. That didn't help at all. I jumped it and It spun it. Those tabs between the bolts make it difficult to get the screw driver across it. I assume this means i need a new starter solenoid? Any way to check if the starter is sticking? Electrical is not my forte.

Load test battery, could be bad cell. Check to see that you have full 12v at starter while cranking. Checking the battery itself while cranking doesn't tell you much. Check and make sure your connections are tight. The "click" could be your ground arcing.


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A bigger wire might help you out!

Fucking Rookies

I put the volt meter to the solenoid while cranking and was only getting 6.89v when the clicks were happening. When it finally went, it shot to 9 something. I load tested the batteries at three auto stores. First said bad battery (didn't believe em) second and third said it was fine. I'll be honest and say that i don't have a clue as to how to approach wiring in a relay. I do appreciate the replies.

The ignition switch contacts loose a little.I either change key,Add larger wire,or add a starting relay.If you give Hoyt a call at GatorTail he can text to the wiring diagram if not I can draw one for u.tks and good luck

I'm now having this "click" problem after taking my boat to the dealer. A few weeks ago while fishing my motor wouldn't turn over, just click. I ended up tapping on the solenoid to get it started. It's under warranty so I took it to the dealer and he put on a new starter and solenoid. Since then I sometimes have to turn the key up to 3-5 times to get it to turn over. Sometimes it won't even click at all and start right up on the first try. I redid my battery connections last night and swapped starter batteries and it's still clicking sometimes. All of the other connections and wiring look good.

Being that the issue only seems to occur with console type ignitions, that should be telling y'all something. I seriously believe it has to do with lost amperage between the switch and solenoid. I'm no electrician, but I do know if you need to carry a heavier amp load, you need a heavier wire to do it. Relayed or not, that wire needs to be heavier.

What Jimmy said. Stop wasting time and listen.....Replace relay that you should have in a 2010 and/or use a bigger gage wire.

Turns out the clutch switch was not always making contact. Replaced it and she is good to go. thanks for the replies.

Yeah ok!

That's weird. I'm glad you got it fixed tho. Mine wont even "click" if the clutch switch is making contact, but is guess if it was aking "partial" contact, that would make sense

Change the key switch. I just did it this morning. Problem fixed. 19.95 on Amazon.


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I just figured mine out. I was losing 5v across the plug when measured on both sides. I hard wire the solenoid wire outside plug and fixed issue

Those plugs are famous for issues. The pre CDI with the flat plugs burn up quite often...

I did what gameover did and it worked, no more GTR click. The yellow wire going through the plug was dropping voltage. Hardwired the yellow wire around plug and straight to solenoid.