I'm finally getting a chance to install the new clutch. Anything new that I need to know that may prolong the life of this sucker? I have read about adjusting airgap, but I don't believe its adjustable. And if I remember, the end of the crankshaft should be recessed slightly so the inner race of the bearing can be preloaded.

Put some anti seize on the crank, bearings, and rotor basket key. All for when you take it apart again to swap it out
spacer, clutch, washer, bolt, torque to 55ft# with Loctite.

Tighten the crank bolt with an impact!!! I know yer ass wont though...

Actually torqued it on this time. The old clutch slid right off with a little penetrating oil. The coils were exposed and my PTO is shot. Have to get another PTO switch. The new extreme clutch went right on without an issue. Also the old clutch bearings were slick as shit. I believe what happened was the crankcase bolt came loose, because it wasn't tight, and caused the failure. But it wasn't bearing failure.

The new clutch has a built in diode into the wire harness. As per their info, its suppose to prevent a rush of current from frying the switch. The clutch will just stop working, but the switch will still be good. Well see, my MOM still works, but I'll have to replace the PTO.

Yes, I was able to find it for $175.

^^^ word!

Banded still keep some anti seize on that shaft, Your gonna need it.....

I actually did.

THanks for the input and response. $75 cheaper adds up. But that why I wanted to know if it might even be of a better quality. And now we have it archived for info that to you Banded. Good luck with it.

I am on clutch #2 with around 200 hours. The 1st one lasted about 200 hours.

The last clutch I replace for a PD, it still worked, at idle. Rev it and the main fuse would POP. The magnet has exposed strands touching the rotor basket.

That's right. You almost need a wire wheel to get that shit off you.