[youtube]https://youtu.be/D5oVOa_X7ro[/youtube]

Just wanted to share my video over the weekend, to save other guys that end up with a hodge podge of parts a fair amount of headache also maybe help show why transom height and shaft length matters on longtails.

So long story short, bought a "cheap running boat", new props, rebuilt motor, can't get over 2500 rpm without the prop just running out the water, come to find out transom height and longtail length matter.

Long story for anyone bored enough to listen, bought this setup from a buddy for what I still consider "cheap", prop was smoked, first backwater 9x7, much better speed but just didn't feel like it had the push, so bps 9x7 looked a lot nicer, pushed way harder on take off but I lacked rpms, rebuilt this old 'water buffalo'(i think thats what you far older folk call them), it was low on compression, thinking how hard can it be (have 15yrs automotive experience I don't need no help), I was wrong, Russ from on here saved my tail many times with rebuilding this, and many times wanted to just give up and start over with something new, I kept tinkering got it back together, won't hardly start, reset valve clearance since apparently the 006 and 007 being stuck together isn't right... I'm sure Russ rolled his eyes thinking this guy in Kansas is literally brain dead. Ok, she starts, sometimes, back fires does all sorts of weird stuff at the end of the year, I park it and just give up. Then read back through the service manual thinking I had to have just missed something dumb, it's a lawn mower engine ffs, oh ignition coil gap... yep that'll do it, glad it's 1970 again small engine engineers... So now it runs not half bad, much better than before I'm fairly happy with it (the governor, i think, rattles sometimes not real sure what to think here so if anyone has an idea I'm all ears lol i feel like all of that went back together smooth on reassembly but I also can't set valves or ignition gap so wtf do I know.) So anyways runs pretty good, sounds super pissed at higher rpms out of water, but my 170# aint holding this thing in the water past 2500-2800, maybe low 3000s if im just 2 handed giving it hell, bend the cav plate every which way, no help, ok wtf, yep finally asked questions and my hodge podge of parts is just that. So tall transom, shorter shaft, so much headache.

Thank you everyone for the help and answering questions directly and indirectly, except you giga (I feel like others will accept me by poking fun at you) good day folks!

IF ANYONE CAN TELL ME WHY BUYING A TALL TRANSOM 77" BACKWATER 37EFI IS A BAD IDEA PLEASE TELL ME BEFORE I SPEND MORE MONEY

Go with the Backwater. I've been researching longtails for 3 weeks straight now and I have yet to come across anyone who has said they regret buying a Backwater. That is definitely where my money will be spent later this year when I buy a new rig.

I'd go with the 40efi.

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Have to agree with texassf! I started with GoDevil, then a MudBuddy, and now Backwater. They have all been reliable, a constant with most LT's. But BW is the new "paradigm". The new lite frame models, without a U-joint, appear to be the best new LT design. Customer service has been superb. The option of using their versa-mount both inboard and outboard style optimizes performance on "compromise" hulls like my 2004 grizzly 1648. I do wish I was more mechanically inclined, would love to try those "in-between" HP motors, like the 28 and 31 on an LT frame. Call me ignorant but why are there no props offered in say, 9x 6.5 or 9 x 7.5?
I have always had short transom hulls, perhaps if I was mostly in big water I would require one. The surface drives have overtaken the LT in many marshes. I run in little mud, plenty of veggies, hard bottom, shallow waters (usually unlike this past wet year), and it is usually just me or one other hunter so my hull and 26.5 HP motor suffices for my 10 mile round trip in a sheltered marsh. Kind of like the much cheaper price of an LT and less maintenance. The only two criticisms I have about BW, which have been aired by others on this forum, is that the tiller arm would be better for me, and taller drivers, with more of an upturn. The motor is also characteristically more rear-weighted than other LT's- I had to move the motor pin position to fully forward to achieve a more neutral balance point. My final observation is that you save up or creatively finance a new motor- it will be a good investment and should give you years of service.

Thank you for the replies! I can barely afford the 37, god know what they will want for the 40, plus if working at a dealer for as long as I did taught me one thing, never ever buy the first model year of anything. From reading on other posts this whole regulators causing fire isn't giving me any warm and fuzzy feelings since i store the boat inside at a buddy's barn and I feel really bad if I burned it down

The 37 sells for $4950. I talked to Jake last week and he said the 40 will be selling for $5250, same 993cc engine as the 35 and 37. I’m guessing maybe some different fuel mods to bump it the 3 extra horse power.

Well, I pulled the trigger, ordered a 37 "lite"/bellhousing frame, check is in the mail and I'm pretty dang excited