alright guys im not big on mods to a motor but i would like to get a better load carrying capacity.....what im looking for is some bolt on power....something simple and easy on the pockets. i have a 35 GTR stock except for an EVT exhaust.....what could i just bolt on that would help me to better carry loads with out doin internal work????and still keep my engine looking like it is stock? if this is even possible? whenever i load my 1854 down with me and 1 guy and all duck hunting gear it runs 23-24 MPH at 3650 RPMs i would like to get at least 26 MPH with this load.....

-JordYb.

Get Hoytafied!

doesnt that include internal work? i was trying to stay away from that bc ive heard that it cuts down on the engine life, not sure if there is any truth to it but it is what i have heard.

He'll mod it any way you want it! If you don't want a cam swap....he want swap it! I advise it though!

I got my engine modded after the La Water run. I tell you what I can't be happier. You notice the stage 1 mods with a load. This past weekend at the camp It was me, buddy Drew, and Slambin in the boat. Also we had our limit of 12 DOzen crabs, 12#'s of Shrimp, Adult beverage ice chest, and 9 gallons of fuel. Goin against the current I was rolling 27 MPH in the deep, and Got 28.5-29 on the bank shallows. When i turned to head back to Josephs harbor the current was heading (rising tide) towards the launch I was running 30-30.5.

I thought the same thing about engine mods, but my stock engine let me down. Its mechanical, it can break no matter what you do or dont! Stage 1 is nice as hell and will not look any different that how you motor looks now.

Curious? you want mods to carry more weight, go faster, or to make that boat run better????

Hoyt at Gator-Tail is the guy you want doing your mods!!

Hoyts stage 1 mods will allow you to carry a load at the same speeds (or better) than you run lite boat now!!

He will also be there for you if something ever goes wrong!

those guys at GT always are....great service

Alright since I am not very familiar with all of this mod talk exactly what goes into a stage 1 kit for a 35 gtr besides shaving your heads .065" and polishing them? Say if I were to purchase all of the parts what would I need to buy?

My stage one is Heads decked .020", port n polish, shimmed valve springs, stainless valves, Hoyt's cam, and advanced the timing. I kept the stock Carb. I have yet to have the engine get below 4K rpms with no matter what load I throw in the boat.

It depends what person you buy your parts from to determine what you get

Just got a quote from Gatortail for Stage 1 mod: $1,800, without muffler which I have to purchase separately. I presume its for head, cam, carb flow work on stock carb, though details not included in email to me...price for parts and labor. This must include new valves and rods as well, would you think? Its expensive but probably worth it.

Would u guys think a mikuni carb and cam do the job without headwork and can I or would I need to advance the timing with these 2 mods?

Carb and Heads are a good combo

decided to have my heads done, have a performance cam installed, and timing advanced. pretty pricy but from what i was told will be well worth the buck, i will find out in about a week or so and do a review.

-JordYb.

I'll be in your area this weekend hunting. Your gonna notice a big difference in load carrying ability.

Question for you guys that have done the cam swap with Hoyt. Does the cam swap entail changing lifters from stock to something else, or does he leave the lifters stock as well? I don't mean anything at all by asking, I'm just asking.

By changing the cam itself I assume it changes the lift and duration without changing lifters themselves?

dguidry i have someone other than gatortail perform headwork so it is a little less, and i am installing the cam and timing key. ran me about $1200. more than i would have liked to spend but i keep hearing that i will not be disappointed what so ever. i was at first looking to just bolt on some power like the mikuni but everyone said that it shortens the life of your motor which i do not want to do but they do give you a decent gain. with the route that i am going i am told that the motor is still strong and reliable and that i will turn at least 4100 RPMs without it hurting the motor.

Why do so many people want to increase RPM's to get more power? If you mod 2 different motors 2 different ways and see allmost equall gains, but one motor turns bout 4500 RPM's while runnin and da other motor turns bout 4000 RPM's. I know I would rather see my performance gains while keepin my RPM's down.

More RPMs = more speed, But if the motor got the power you can control your speed with Rpms.

900$ for cam install, gasket, and timing key? how much does a timing key cost???

Five bucks... I thought that was a lil steep too, and the way I read it he was installing the cam and key himself. Brand new cam from evt is 275 (just a reference)...Key 5 bucks...Heads decked at local machine shop ?$100?... Don't know how you get to 1200 so quick unless you are getting TAXED out the azz on labor which it looked like he wasn't paying for.

Jordy,

What exactly are you paying Gator-Tail 1200$ for? A cam, gaskets, and timing key? You said you already had the exhaust and someone else is doing the headwork.

I am guessing when he says "I am installing" what he means is he is having installed.....

just my .02...

no GT is not doing the work, it would have costed me more money than that but the machine shop is charging me $200, $300 for a cam, a few bucks for the timing key, labor take it down, put it together etc., and tuning the stock carb local mechanic will perform this work and he is backing it so i am sure it will be worth the buck i am putting out. there were a few other small/minor parts but it came out to about 300 labor.