Please describe process. Thanks

Take motor off frame
Open crankcase (may want to drain the oil first)
Take out old cam
Put new one in where the old one came out.


Its fairly simple.

I told you that you could whittle you one from a dowel

Pine nots are the strongest and more durable, should be able to turn a cam out of one of those!

How did Choudrant get it's name? I use to see Choudrant HS at the yearly state class B track meets and they always hand a good team.

I would think a little more information is needed.
1 what would the camshaft be going in? (car, truck, van, lawnmower, tractor,forklift, boat, jet ski, snowmobile, atv, ice maker, etc?
2 what kind of engine is it? chevy, ford, toyota, evinrude, honda, john deere?
3 is it water cooled, air cooled?
4 overhead valve, L head, flat head, pushrod motor?
5 how man valves per cylinder? 2,3,4?
6 is the old camshaft already out?
7 is it chain or gear driven?
8 do you have an mechanical abilitys? or will this need to be step by step?
a little more details will help maybe give you an answer.

Just a wild guess, but I'm thinking its for his 23hp briggs gtr...Being that he had a post a day or two ago asking about a cam for that motor. Best bet is for him to get a service manual for whatever motor it is, but I think I broke it down pretty close.

Guidry, did you find a cam yet?

Cb5331

Never seen it anywhere as clearly set goth that this. Thanks.

Questions:

1. Remove engine from frame. Ok, so I think my picture of this is clearer. The engine bolts to a horizontal plate. Loosening the bolts will release tension on the drive belt which is the only thing connecting the engine to the drive system. So when you lift the engine the belt will s clear the clutch. Yes?

2. Remove the clutch: so clutch is attached to the drive shaft. How? What do you unbolt?

3. At this point all Electrical and fuel is still attached to engine. I disconncect battery connection and fule pump line. Now I should just have a free floating engine with electrical and fuel attached that I transfer to bench to clear valves, litters, etc, remove crankcase, pull camshaft and reinstall in reverse. Yes?

Never taken apart a gt, so I don't know exactly how the clutch comes off that motor. On my pd, you raise the tiller assembly off the lower unit, remove the spline adapter, and then there is a bolt that goes through the clutch in to the crank. Remove that, and the clutch is off.

The clutch, flywheel, and crank case bolts are really the only thing holding it all together. Sounds like you got it, but a service manual is very handy to have around...Justincase.

Don't forget the assembly lube! You don't want to start it with the cam dry as a bone. You want a good solid coat on all the lobes, and on the bottom of the lifters. I would rub some up in the bore too, or at least make sure there is a good film of oil. It ain't gonna hurt anything to have a lil too much in there, but it will damage stuff if you don't have enough. It will wash out in the first oil change...

Did you find a cam yet?

Here's what sent me
I have the cam you need for that engine.  We grind it on a cam blank that is much stronger than the cam that comes in your engine.  I also have the aftermarket valve springs and billet retainers you will need. 

I'm guessing he wants to sell you the cheetah cam. That is a BIG cam! EVT used to use them. Lot of guys have torn up their motors with them. I would highly recommend you calling EVT and Hoyt! At least hear what they have to offer. It's worth a few extra pennies to get a cam that is right for what you will be doing.

Also, most would recommend shimming your stock springs. The aftermarket one's put a lot of un needed stress on the cam. You won't be turning 7k+ with your motor, like the motors those cam's are designed for...

Get the cam from Hoyt or EVT. Not sure but chops may have em also.

I'm no expert man, but I have seen several of those cams break and trash motors... I also know, they are more designed for cart racing, and turning really high rpm's. You want something a lil different for your application. Just my .02

I didn't know the case would come apart without taking the flywheel off... Once again, DB8, the man with the plan. Just posted how I had done it before. Sounds like I may have done a lil too much work. Thanks DB.

Deadbird

More detail would be appreciated about following

"Remove the outdrive"
"New o rings in the oil ports"

Thank you

Nevr cracked a block on a 23 but on the motors I have worked on the o rings for the oil parts were by the gasket for the crankcase cover. Hope this helps dguidry

Deadbird said "new o rings" so I'm presuming I'm installing a new crankcase gasket which comes with a set of new o rings?

Are these a must replace, or just something you should replace while you're in there? Should be able to pick them up locally right?

Gonna be cracking in to my dad's motor. Already ordered a new pan gasket, but did not order any o-rings. Also, is replacing the lifters necessary if the old one's are in good shape? Anything else you would recommend?

Anything else you would do while it's cracked open?

Why don't these engines have hydraulic litters, or do they? Just curious; not even clear on their function.

Nope. The kohlers do, but briggs don't. I put solids in mine, cause I think they are easier to adjust. The hydraulic lifters are always adjusting, if you will, to keep the lash right. I was told toooooo many different ways to adjust them and got tired of forkin with em. Set the solids at .005 and be done with it, check em when doing normal maintenance.

All Ive ever worked on is solid, enlighten me on how hydro. lifters work

I'd just confuse myself. Go to kohlers website, they have a thing on there explaining them.

MMT out to sticky the relevant sections of this for future reference. I'm ordering cam Monday.

What are the advantages of hydraulic valve lifters?

Hydraulic valve lifters reduce valve noise and compensate for valve wear. This eliminates valve adjustments and ensures full power output throughout the life of the engine.