I need to replace the case gasket on my 36, oil is pourin out pretty bad. I have never opened up the block on one of these motors, or any motor for that matter. I have a buddy that is a mechanic at an equipment rental company that will be lending me a hand. My question is, once I am already opening the block to replace the case gasket, how much more work would be involved to put a new cam in the motor? Does anyone have any step by step details or instructions from when they installed a cam on their PD?

Thanks

If you want to do a cam you are over half way there replacing the gasket. I would go on and do it.

This was posted the other day.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15975

Yeah I saw that, Im just wondering what will be different because the PD is vertical.

Doesn't take any effort at all to swap the cam when your replacing the case gasket. You already know how to get the case apart? Not too hard. The few threads recently about cams give a pretty good break down. Only thing really different from the gt or mb to the pd, is how you remove the clutch.

If you can get the case apart, only thing to swapping the cam is: release the pressure on the rockers so the lifters move freely, slide the cam out, lube new cam and lifters, line up timing marks and slide it all back together..

I had been following the instructions for tearing down the motor and turned out I was doing a lot more work than I needed to. I thought the flywheel and everything needed to be removed in order to separate the case, but that is not the case. Makes perfect sense, as we are not removing the crank. Anyway, here's how I just did it this weekend... Just my way, I'm sure others have their own way, maybe better, maybe not.

1) Disconnect power, and fuel lines.
2) Remove the four bolts holding the tiller assembly to the lower unit, and lift motor off the frame.
3) Remove the four allen head bolts holding the spline adapter to the clutch. Then remove the bolt holding the clutch to the crankshaft.
4)I remove the engine from the tiller assmbly, but do not think it's absolutely necessary. Sure makes it easier to get at the case bolts though.
5)Remove valve covers, and loosen rockers to take pressure off the lifters.
6)Remove case gasket bolts, and separate case.
7)Make sure the pressure is off the lifters, gently slide out cam and catch the lifters.

Clean the inside of the case and the gasket surface. It's recommended to replace the two O-rings on the gasket surface of the case. Get a good coat of lube on the new cam and lifters. Slide the lifters back in. Line up the timing marks on the cam with the crank, and slide the new cam in to place.

Put a light coat of anaerobic sealant on both sides of the case, put the new gasket in. Put the case back together and torque the bolts.

Reattatch the tiller assembly, then the clutch. Yada, yada, yada. Set ur valve lash, and let er rip!

Hope this helps.

As you know I just did that on my GT. I think since PD is vertical shaft the engine lays horizontally so the crakccase cover is prolly facing downward which means you'll have to pull the whole motor off the frame to replace the gasket and cam. But you won't have any reverse assembly to mess with like on a GT. good luck. The process for me was very educational.

Owen once you get the powerhead off its the same process. pop the old one out, lube the lobes, lube lifters, line up the dots, and button up the case.

mucho gracias

So once you get the top part of the motor seperated, would you flip it upside down to install the new cam or try to prop it up on its side or what?

You've never even had to replace a Lower Unit???

Once you lift the tiller assembly off the LU, the clutch comes with it. Remove the spline adapter, and there is a bolt holding the clutch in place. You may have to secure the flywheel to get this bolt out. If you look at the pics gary posted, their clutch looks similar to ours. It has that big washer (if you will) you can grab with a set of channel locks. Depending on how tight or rusted in the bolt going in to the crank is, it may come on out. The one I took apart last weekend broke free, but was still too tight to turn freely. I had to secure the flywheel to get it out. My kohler, soon as I broke the bolt free, I was able to just spin the bolt out.

Get u a service manual though, just to have. That way if you get in a bind, and don't remember where something went or how to get somethin back together, you'll have instructions. Also give you all the torque specs you need. I would use the torque sequence gary posted the other day for the case bolts though.

Don't forget to drain the oil first.

Couldnt you take off your grab/lift handle on the motor and sit it up like that?

Nope- just be careful with it when you have it on the lift and set it down on the flat part of the block so it sits up like a horizontal and get the case off.