I had about a 7hp Scavenger blow by me on the river yesterday.

Alright, enough of the cryin!

36 PD (90 hr), yeh! ran bad gas, changed out for good 93 gas(+sea foam),vent open, no quick connects,5/16 hose(tank at front,12ft),changed fuel filter.

Starts fine, idles fine 1190rpm, here`s where it gets ugly full throttle 2800rpm(5 mph)
(normal fwt 4400)(28mph).

I`m thinkin carb (high speed jet)clogged, but I`m no expert, that why I`m askin for help.

And any help would be much appreciated!

I would say run it out to H&W on 155 and get them to look at it. Does sound like the carb though.

what your rpms are in neutral?

It could be trash in the carb or the valves need to be set.

It was running fine before the bad gas? Did it set up for a while?
Do you have spark on both cylinders?

Also- I wouldn't take anything to H&W

H&W sends their Briggs work to Tyler anyway. And I couldn't get that azzhole to do my warranty work for nothing. Brought it down to PD and they took care of me.

yeah they took it to cutters lawn now they are closed down so i dont know who is doing thier briggs warranty now

H&W just needs to bite the bullet and get a Briggs certified mechanic and do their own. Bad CS IMO and if they plan to keep selling these motors they need to take care of their customers themselves.

yep they dont even take the motor off the whole boat went to cutters

Plenty of Briggs lawnmower shops around here but they are used to dealing with a mower they can roll into their shop. None of them wanted to touch a MM. I have tried to convince a couple to gear up for it cause with all the MMs in the area now they are going to need warranty and service work. I have been told by several that there is not much money in warranty from Briggs. Don't know first hand though.

Rpm in nuetral 1190.

Yes it sat for a couple wks, but main cause was vent left open(probably water contaminated).

I`m hoping I don`t have to take it any where,but if I do, I need some good info on where to take it , or not take it .

Good info on H&W, cause that is where I was considering, seeing as how that is the only place I know of around here, and that is where I baught the motor.

I`m wondering if any one on MMT has had this type problem .

Is it firing on both cylinders? Disconnect the spark plug wire, pull back the insulator at the end WEARING A GLOVE crank the motor while holding the plug wire close to a ground on the motor (heat shield will work). Then do the other one.

If you have a primer bulb on it, try running without it and see if that is the source of an air leak.

If you think theres something gummed up in the carb, you can try some carburator cleaner into the carb bowl- uncap the rubber plug on the brass pipe coming out of the bowl and spray cleaner into the port (wear eye protection and wait for it to evaporate before trying to start it). Or just take off the carb and remove the bowl- 4 screws on the bottom of the carb.

I`m getting good spark from both wires ,and (new) plugs(.030 gap).

I put a new primer bulb on when I changed gas, and filter.

I`m going to try the carburator cleaner in the morning.

Try pulling a plug wire while its running and see if it still runs with only one cylinder you might have trash in the carb. This happened to me and it was trash in the carb -- the inside of my fuel line had deteriated and little pieces of rubber were in my jets

Pulled plugs (dark and damp), cleaned and gapped to (.035) replaced.

Pulled rubber cap to tube at carb, first couple shots just soaked it up, about third shot-cleaner started shooting out carb.

Let set for while, started up good as usual, idled good(1190),
throttled up ,got past 2900rpm pretty easy, and was getting over 3300rpm
when I decided it was looking better, backed off.


Now I hope to take it out this evening,or tomorrow, and try it under load,
I`ll let you all know how it comes out, but I`m optimistic .

It was sounding better, I sure hope that fixed it.

Under this Obamaconamy I can`t afford to much motor work!

Thanks !

Run it to make sure your RPMS are set right. I set my stock at 4100 on the trailer.

You can go up to 4300 on the governor, just turn the Gov adjustment screw CW until it starts to pull on the idle.

Avoid ethanol gas and use stabil to avoid dis shit.

Well fellas , fishin was good, but motor -not so good!

Same results as before, but this time at full throttle with load. barely able to get 2000rpm.

Pulled plug wire while running, each side ran -while other unplugged.

I`m thinkin I`ll pull carb, and check jets.

But really I`m hopin I don`t have something worse like bent push rod, etc.

Well any help is really appreciated.

I hope I don`t have to pull it all the way to PRO DRIVE, but if I have to I will.

If you had a bent push rod, it would not stay in place and you would be running on one cylinder. (That would actually be a cheap easy fix)

Your problem sounds like it is at the carb or possibly the fuel pump.

What about a worn cam lobe?

after installing a aftermarket carb and exhaust, and not the revlimiter that came with the kit, I over reved the motor a couple of times by hitting logs, or getting in thick mud and blowing a hole out around the prop and my motor started acting like a plug wire came loose, checked it and still connected, idled home and pulled the valve cover and the allen screw that holds the push rod down had backed all the way out and the rod was laying in the rocker (loose). Very simple fix. It pretty much acted the same as when I had a burnt coil.

Believe me , I`m really hoping it is the carb (jet that is), but when I give it full throttle it seems like- it is- running on one cylinder.
Whats funny is that it starts, and idles real good, and when you engage it and start giving it gas, it responds real good, but it`s like it does`nt want to go to high gear.

I probably won`t get a chance to get at it till the end of the week, but after I get the carb looked at I am probably going to install a E-fuel pump, if for no other reason than to get rid of the primer bulb(that thing had really deteriated).

If you allready pulled each spark plug wire and the motor was still running, that rles out running on one cylinder, which means your push rods and cam are fine.

Well yeah , it ran just fine when I pulled the plug wires.

That`s good news about the rods and cam.

Yeah , I am still leaning (hoping) toward the carb, but I won`t get a chance to get to it for a few days.
Got family in town tommorow, and work all week.
I might fit it in, one night.

Any suggestions , other than soaking it in carb cleaner.

Thanks!

Where is home in ETEX??
Have u done a compression check?

Marshall! North ETEX

No I hav`nt done a compression check.

Just checked compression.

L/S-140- plug carbon grey-dry

R/S-145- plug carbon grey-dry

Seems to be burning rich.

Diodes do weird things some times, I seen diodes check good with a meter(ohm) but until they are volt/amp load tested will not fail

Any head way??

UPDATE!

First the good news.
Took carb off, only blockage found was main feed into float valve, so we soaked the whole carb in carb cleaner, for about 3hrs.
Presto, all clean and good flow through feed tube.
Replaced stock hose from filter to pump & from pump to carb,(Dads convinced Ethenol is the devil and it ate thows hoses, so we changed to good marine grade fuel line.
Started her up, perfect, runnin good gettin good rpms, good response.
We`re happy, proud of our self.
My next step was to adjust the lifters(95hrs) before we take out to load test.
After all, it is time to do that.

Well now for the bad news

Remember how proud we were it was running so good on the trailer?
And how them rpms were gettin up there so good?
Dad said ,"I got it up to 4900",(what happened to the revlimiter was my question?)
Any how, we start to leave to go test under load,so I want to start it up one more time.
More bad news, now it is`nt running so good.
We head to the river, launch, start it up, its not runnin right, feels like runnin on one cyl.
Pull it back to the house,check diodes,wires, plugs, All working fine good spark.
except this time pull plug on right side nothing, pull plug on left side dies.

Remember I got 140lb left and 145lb right last week? Well today Left side -0-, right side 150lb.

Ok remember I had planned on setting lifters before load test? TOO LATE!

Thats right opened lft valve cover, and you all know what I found.
That`s right BENT PUSH ROD.

So thats not to bad, I should have adjusted lifters as soon as we had it runnin good, but that is ifs and buts, a little less zeal with the throttle rev ,probably woud have gone a long way.
Now I have got to order pushrods- and if any body has any advise where to get it ,or where to get better than Briggs.
That rod looked like light weight steel, or aluminium.

Well as before, any help is appreciated

Call BoatDr - he ships quick.

You need to check your rev limiter

BoatDr-(504)737-1203- good info.

Ordered from Briggs last night , and still don`t have a UPS tracking #, so I hope it`s not going to take all week.

10-4 on the revlimiter check(turn gov. cw-until pulls on idle).

UPDATE!
Remember that bent push rod? Well, I got a flat cam lobe to match. Sucks, but man by the time I get this lawn mower motor fixed I`ll have it figured out from prop nut -to- fly wheel screen . (FYI-adjust lifters-ASAP).
What do you all reccomend as far as replacement cam (stock-or-after market), if after market what brand?
While I`ve got it pulled apart any other suggestions , as far as upgrades (clutch,fuel pump, any thing)?

Man, that bites. I don't know a whole lot about these engines, but I would hate to think u bent a p-rod and flattened a lobe from revving it to 4900+ Rpms once.

Since you won't have a core to send in, they are all similar in price. I would buy from whoever you are the most comfortable buying from. Hoyt has a really good cam, the BPS cam is good, as well as the 493f from EVT. They are all basically ground to accomplish the same goal, just have different ways of reaching their results. Haven't really heard about any failure's with any of those three.

Either call BPS and order their cam or call hoyt and get his.