I need mods 101.

So, I'm not even going to try pretend that I know what you are all talking about when you mention mods. Can someone give me an idea what the different levels include? Stage 1, 2, etc.

I just want some more power for a 35GTR... what will a stage 1 mod do for me? I don't want to use the boat for playing... only hauling a really heavy load, so are they worth it strictly from a power perspective?

Put cam and heads

and exhaust...

I thought that on EVT's stage 2, it meant adding a cam, rr's and push rods, and stage 3 was adding the piston's and rods. Is that not right? If that is wrong then what made the stage 3 a stage 3? Big bore?

unless you are using your boat as a TOY to have fun in the sun DONT DO IT!!!

It is very fun and always a head turner but lots of down time can come from any mod....hell any motor!!!

Keep it stock and have fun. If you wanto go faster get a ProDrive

Later

Great info... please keep it coming.

I just want to push a really full load at more than 2500 RPMs and on plane.

im a commercial fisherman and abuse my motor daily i personally wouldnt go without a stage 1

The engine is actually more reliable with a stage 1 than it is stock.

its not under such a strain under load im guessing

1754gt hull 35gtr carb, exhaust, cam, minor head work, 12.25big blade prop 3 ppl, ice chest full of beer, 12 gallons of gas runnin steady 32

Headwork will get you sealing valves, shimmed valve springs so you can run the motor at a slightly higher RPM and not have them float, and a better cam than stock (stock cams have potential to wear out prematurely). With the extra power boost your engine isnt lugging near as much so it is actually more efficent for everyday use. So many stock powerheads are just lugging and wasting power.
T-bubba's PD was runnign like shit... Stock valves werent sealing at all. He had them lapped to create a good valve seal and his stock motor is running 10x better... Stock sucks.

Of course, all of this depends on who does your work & what they do to the motor. Not knocking anyone personally, just sayin.

Also be advised that YES stock cams round lobs but the ratio to failed cames is much higher for aftermarket cams for this application. The only reason you are at a greater risk of rounding an aftermarket cam is because there are far fewer aftermarket cams than stock. Aftermarkets are better but still have problems. I lost on at less than an hours that was installed by a PRO ( ) that eventualy cost me a block.

With that said please be ready to replace a cam if you stay stock or mod. If you do any mods it is advised to go ahead and get the came since you will be puting more pressure the lobes by shimming your springs. I would say that if your motor has a few 100'd hours you are likely to have a solid stock cam and an aftermarket is not always needed.

Read everythign posted many times to figure out what you need.

The correct stage 1 will last you a long time if you keep you RMP down.

Later

Thank you everyone for your input.

I can run 26-28 mph with 1 or 2 people in the boat at 3900-4000 rpms. It runs fantastic like this! As soon as you add a 3rd person, it goes to 19-20 mph regardless of how I adjust the load at 3900-4000 rpms. As soon as you add the 4th person it doesn't plane and runs 2500-2650 rpms. The bottom has no dents or problems. The boat is a 1754 excel with a .125 hull. I've owned 7 props to date and have no luck with that option.

I had to get a traditional 40 hp outboard just to push a hunting load with this boat. A 40 horse outboard has no problem planing out this boat regardless of the load I've put in it.

I asked a couple of boat makers how much weight a .100 hull saves and it isn't enough to offset a load of 4 people. That's why I think I I need more horsepower.

So... is more horsepower going to help?

If you replace your heads, exhaust, cam, and carb. you are going to carry 3-4 people at the same speed you run empty now.

So yes, they will help.

Oh yea and thats just 2G's for all that!