I have been running my GTR quite a bit this year and it seems it is starting to have trouble starting.

Here is the issue....

I pull up to the ramp and try to start the motor. I choke it and do whatever else possible to get it to fire up. It literally takes me 8-10 times of turning the key, maybe more, till it will finally fire. It just keeps turning over and turning over but wont fire up. It used to not be this difficult to start. It is really bad when the temps are in the teens or twenties. I figured it might just be the cold weather but it never used to be this difficult for it to start. Once I get it going it runs fine. Even after the hunt when I go to fire it up, it fires right up with no problems. That's why I am thinking that it is just the cold weather causing this. This doesn't sound like a spark plug problem does it? If it was a spark plug problem I would think it would have difficulties starting every time. Any other suggestions to look at?

Also, it may have something to do with my choke. I used to be able to pull my choke out and it would stay there. Now when I pull the choke out I have to hold it out. If I let it go, it goes back in. Not sure why it does this...

Thanks for the help.

Hey bro, look at my Gecker Carb install and view the pictures of the Choke cable... You might have rotated it accidently or its not hanging on?

You should be able to pull the choke out and have it stay.

When I'm at the ramp I pump the bulb up hard pull the choke and give a tiny bit a throttle along with the choke 2-3 turns and its almost always fired up. The linkage in the butterflies could be holding it closed against the idle adjustment screw causing it to stick from any moisture (ice) etc... Working the throttle cable or just touching the linkage with your hand before cranking the motor at the ramp should solve that. Those would be my guesses...

I looked at your carb pics. It looks like my choke might be connected to a different whole than yours. Hard to tell from the pics. It looks like you have two different holes you can attach the choke to, I guess for different settings/options?

My choke is connected to the lower right hole that sits farther back...not the hole that sits up high in the left corner portion...hope this makes sense. It seems like the spring keeps pulling the choke back in when I pull it out.

Here is a pic of my choke.


Here is a pic of the choke when I am holding it out.



Anything look different? If I need to get better pics I will take the air cover off and try.

Almost positive yours is correct also my choke was disconnected in those pics for install... Just wanted to give you something to look at... Try disconnecting choke and the little clip that secures the mechanism to the choke rod. If you recently have messed with it I noticed with mine it could rotate around and not sit back just right... causing it to catch or not pull out all the way like it should, might be your issue... Try simple first. Have you messed with your springs back there at all? There's a small spring that sits on your throttle linkage that retracts it back and forth.

I'd sit and fiddle with it once in AM once in PM until you get it right (try to mimic the cold situation). The choke should be able to pull out and hold in one place without you holding it. Also try to give it some gas with the throttle see if that helps at all.

Did you recently mess with your carb or intake? I noticed when removing the carb and playing with the gaskets that if I got one (gasket) sticking out to far on accident the butterflies would get hung up. Just a thought.

I will try that. Is there supposed to be anything behind the black knob on the inside part of the plastic panel that somehow holds it out or catches it?

I just went outside to try and get some video of it try to start. It cranked up on about the 5th time. I'll try to get some at the ramp tomorrow when it is in the teens and won't start...

I'm running same thing I think... or maybe its 5W-30? I can never remember I doubt its the oil. Sounds like your throttle and choke are just getting hung up or sticking. Perhaps a spring tab got bent and is providing extra resistance?

Probably not much help but once while i was at a buddys camp he use my boat and when i got in the next mornign to crank it I couldnt start it. I noticed the choke had no resistance when pulled.... So that little slip clip that help it in the hole of the choke plate opened up and allowed the choke rod to come out and not pull on the plate. SImple fix and bam i could crank her up without fear of flooding it by holding the throttle open.

But your pics show that the rod is indeed in tact..

Before you try to crank it squeeze your throttle lever about 6 times then pull your choke hold it out and turn it over. My choke knob doesn't stay out anymore so I do this when ever I do a cold start and it cranks everytime.

WEA be careful pumping that ball hard, the fuel pump has a small thin diaphram in it that can bust and the motor will not stay running. Just a heads up from personal experiance.

Two other thoughts...

1. Try starting the motor with handle down / prop up and also
in the level position --- a mis-aligned or stuck carb float will
act different in the two positions....

2. Simple vapor lock --- I put a see-thru fuel filter about two inches
below the inlet to the fuel pump on the motor so I can visually
check the fuel flow into the engine --- if your bulb has a bad check
valve fuel will reverse flow and give you the vapor lock, then after
running for a while the check valve may begin working better....

Good luck -- but I bet it is fuel related if not an issue with your choke

Robert- you had a similar problem in the late summer, wasn't it your battery?

Try jumping your boat battery with your truck and see if the motor cranks right up cold. If that battery is draining overnight it could be causing your problem with the hard start (turning it, but not turning it quick enough especially when the oil is cold) . When you make your run and finish hunting and it starts right up, the battery was charged by the stator on your way out and your oil is probably still warm. You may also check your battery cable connections at both the battery terminals and at the motor (disconnect them and reconnect them). Robby had the same problem with the hard start this summer and when he disconnected the cables, tried another set, and then reconnected the originals and the problem went away.

Your choke linkage in the pics is in the right hole. just make sure the choke lever on the carb is traveling 90 degrees when you pull the choke out. It should pop back in, if it wasn't before it could have been alot of things (gunk in the bushing in your front plate etc... it was fine when I looked at your motor in July).

I hooked the battery up to my truck to see if my battery might have been weak. Doesn't seem to be. Still does the same thing...has trouble starting.

If it were the spark plugs wouldn't it do this everytime I tried to start it, not just when its cold?

Any other things to look at? Please help...I need to get this problem fixed.

.005

Here is some very usefull info that Deadbird8 has posted before on adj. your valves if you've never done it. Hope this helps you solve your problems.



Setting Valve Lash or Valve clearance is important and should be checked after the first 15 hours of running. If its not set right, the valves are not opening and closing at the correct times and could be throwing un-burnt fuel into the muffler (after fire). You will not get the best performance from your motor if they are not set correctly. The 35 HP valve setting range is 0.004 to 0.006, yours may be different so check your owners manual. Modified motors may also have different settings.

You set the valves on a cold engine, remove your valve covers, spark plugs, and engage the clutch. Turn the crank shaft/prop until you see the valves opening and closing. After the exhaust valve closes put your finger over the plug hole and when you feel air coming out (compression stroke) then go slow. Look in your spark plug hole with a flashlight and turn the shaft till you see the cylinder rise to its max point. Turn it just a little bit more till it drops ¼” and then set the valve clearance (this is ¼” past Top Dead Center- TDC).

Use a feeler gauge to check/set the clearance one that has 0.004, 0.005, and 0.006 will cost less than $8 at Autozone. Go with 0.005 setting. Loosen the 13MM nut on the adjuster on the back of the rocker arm and use a metric hex wrench or torx screwdriver (depending on your adjuster type) to adjust the clearance. The feeler gauge should move between the valve and the rocker arm with resistance (like slicing a stick of cool butter with a knife), it may take a few tries to get it right. Once its the correct clearance then hold the adjuster and tighten the 13MM nut. Recheck it to make sure you didn't move it while tightening and then do the other one and then repeat the whole procedure for the other cylinder. Torque specs: Valve Cover- 70 in. lbs (8 Nm), Rocker Arm Adjuster Lock Nut- 70in. lbs (8 Nm). Recheck valve clearance after about 10 hours.

Different valve settings:
.006- Better Low end torque
.004- Higher Speed
.005- Happy medium

Note- you may get away with re-using the valve cover gaskets, if you reinstall the covers and see oil leaking after running, order and install new gaskets.

I found this video explaining how to do it. Seem right?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGkn0jR9RJM

I will pick up a feeler gauge on the way home tonight.

Yes. Thats a good explanation.

Craig,

Not being a smartass but serious question. Why did you set your exhaust valves the same as the intake valves? Why wouldn't you want them different?

Craig, how often do you adjust the valves or check them?

If you watch the video that RDR posted above the guy says it's good to do it once a year. I would have to agree. I think that if you are somewhat mechanically inclined that once a year or every 50 or so hours will keep you trouble free and your engine running good. It doesn't take but about 10 mins. to check em'.

I personally don't do it or any other maint. until I'm forced to. But I'm lazy.

Well I reset my valves to .005. 3 out of the 4 were pretty close. 1 of them was so tight I could not get the feeler gauge in it. I turned the key and it started much easier. Going to try to wait till tonight or in the morning to start it again and see what it does.

Cool deal. All it takes is 1 to be offset to cause you some problems.

This has turned into a good thread .... Thanks HDR and Craig !!! and of 'course DB8 !!

I have not put the check on mines and I have 'bout 255 hrs since Hoyt did some of his work. I thank I read somewheres that its part of Briggs PM that you do this ....

I shall attempt (when it warms up) to become a mechanic and perform this task !!

Well took the rig out this morning and it did the same thing when I went to start it. About after 5 mins of turning the key over it finally started. It was 9 degrees where I was hunting but I still don't think it should be this hard to start in the mornings. I guess the valves were not the problem. Going to look at it some more and see if I cant figure the issue out. It seems like it is not getting fuel to start with. Now if I hold the throttle open, try to start it, then pull the choke out and try to start it again it fires up. Once it's running it runs great.

I checked my fuel lines and they look good. No cracks or anything. Maybe I need a new primer bulb? Anyway to bypass this bulb and see if that's the problem? I do have a quick disconnect on my gas tank. Maybe that is the issue?

Unless you have a aftermarket carb squeezing the throttle 6 times isn't gonna do squat, no accelerator pump.

So far you've adjusted the valves, and checked to see if the choke is closing all the way. I'd replace the spark plugs and double check the fuel line, also get rid of the quick disconnect. Cold weather has a way of bringing out any air leaks that you may not have when it's 40 degrees outside.

Thanks for the help guys. I figured out how to start it now.