So I suspect something is wrong. No matter what i do I can't seem to tune the carb right had a 30mm so I went up to 32mm fixed some things but not everything.. no matter how I jet it is seem to get the same results. Then I thought I had it yesterday and was running at night and the right side ( facing the front of engine ) bps exhaust was glowing red just that side. I tore the whole thing apart today. Compressing tested it , leak down tested and then ohm out the coils they were perfect at 6.38 and 6.40 , when I removed the head the gasket was perfect no burn spots everything fine. Just that side gets really hot. Thinking about just saying hell with it and running it . Any ideas of what it could be. Unless it's the opposite side not working hard enough making me think is the right side (when facing front of engine), I am just beating my head trying to figure this out. When I shut it down it wants to still run after key is off any ideas. Thanks guys

35 or 23?


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Intake manifold gaskets Ok ? Maybe a leak causing hot side to run lean. Or fly wheel key partially sheared putting motor a little out of time, on cool side cylinder..???

It's the 23 hp .. and it has a rev kit with the timing advance I guess it's a 30 degree advance from karts parts and I actually went about half of the 30 to 15degrees. And I changed all the gaskets on that side

I'm thinking the cool side is the problem side, do the plugs look the same ? Maybe a weak valve spring on the cool side intake valve, or cam lobe is going flat on intake valve. Timing change might of worsen a problem that wasn't noticeable with the stock key.??? Guessing now ??

I wonder the same thing, cam has like an hour on it and the heads are brand new as with the springs and valves and all then on the new heads I shimmed the springs so possibly not the weak Springs.. I'm thinking the cam also but unless it was ground shitty then wouldn't see it a problem with an hour .. but I will pull the cool side and check it as well and no air leaks checked with starter fluid no change in engine rpms. Out-of Ideas thought about buying another new cam or trying to send the one back to dyno cams cam is 308+4 with the lash set at .003 is this too tight? And what should the correct lash be for this cam ..
also could running too rich cause this problem

Checking Plug color would tell if it is running rich or lean. Don't think hot side is running to lean. Valve lash could be set a bit tight or may have moved after adjustment when tighting rocker down. With new cam did it come with new push rods? With a taller lobes on cam push rods could be a problem. Also shape of lobe may not have enough duration to allow enough fuel air mixture to cylinder. And valve over lap on exhaust side may be sucking what mixture there is out of cylinder on compression stroke. Guessing again?? Had a Harley with the same cam valve problem. Turned out to be cam grind. Another thought could cam install be off a tooth when installed?

Hey Denny I think your about spot on i have a call in to dyno cams. And wanna talk with them to see what they suggest. The push rods are the stock steel rods and I lined up the timing dots on cam when i installed it . But I'm guessing cam is issue . Also is .003 too tight if so what should they be. Like 5 thousands I can re lash the valves but I'm at a stale mate as what to do, I know something is wrong I get the same plug reading weather I put a 200 main and a 250 main. I see people with same mods that have 180 Main and 25 piolet.

On the 18-and 23 HP motors I had I always set Valves at .05, but they were stock motors. Timing and cam grind could cause some of your problem. Could be they miss marked cam gear a tooth or so. When they built cam, And with a different fly wheel key something is a bit off. May have to go back to stock key and start over with timing. Will be interesting to see what manufacture says.

OK

32 mm mikuni - 22.5 pilot 220 main in summer 230 main in winter. e clip 1 notch up from middle.

adv. timing key heads .035 gutted exhaust bps cam. I run the flat slide carb not sure if you have round or flat. lash setting between .004 and .006

I do have the round slide probably less air flow or not a smooth as the flat slide if I'm not mistaken .004 - .006 isn't that stock settings, I have the 32mm mikuni round slide, bps crossover. 308+4 dyno cam, thin head gaskets equal to .030, high Rev kit = timing advance ,shimmed springs and all steel rods, electric fuel pump bps 4600 rpm limiter ,, Maybe for shits and giggles I'll go to .006 on lash , but I'm really guessing it's a bad grind on the cam Tommy wants me to use a dial indicator to check cam it have never used one before ..cam has an hour on it he should have said send it back and we'll check it out for you .... ALSO aren't you supposed to go down in winter and up in the summer since colder fuel doesn't atomize as fast, and hot fuel atomizes fast thus needing more fuel,

No, fatter jet in the winter.

OK my apologies about the jets.. just my dumb thoughts LOL.. regardless of jets I believe my issue is with the cam. Has anyone ever used the dial indicator to find d cam center line

I think you will still have to open motor back up to get a reading. Got to see marks on cam and crank. Guessing again??

It's more common than not that the people buying custom cams own and know how to use a degree wheel. Not as common in the mudmotor scene, but people using custom grinds in pretty much every other application are going to degree every cam they get. It's not an odd thing for him to request of you and it's not that hard to do.

You don't have to take the case apart and if you get the right setup, you don't have to remove the head either.

I completely understand what you are saying. Just my dumb ass thought to match up timing marks and put it in and roll. Well that's how you learn make mistakes and learn from that some mistakes can be expensive . And it's all stock internals but brand new heads. If I have to buy a new cam I guess that's what I'll have to do, hopefully I didn't mess anything up by not degreeing the cam

Yep.

OK thanks for the advice , i just don't have a degree wheel.