Within the next week or so I'm going to pull the trigger on mods. With that being said, how much of an increase in power should I see from doing heads, exhaust and carb on a 36 ProDrive? 15-20% ? Will it be enough of a gain that I will need to get prop work done or buy another prop? I am currently running a stock 3 blade that's in excellent condition so Im really hoping I won't need a new one.

Thanks in advance for the assistance. If it wasn't for the members of this forum I would be totally lost when it comes to the mods....

I went from 26 mph empty boat and stock prodrive, to 32 mph empty.
and went from 19-20 and BARELY plaining fully loaded with 3 big guys, to 27 mph after mods.
This is my first modded engine, and will never go back to a stocker.

Obviously your speeds may be different, but it wake up the motor.

Im sure when my case gasket starts leaking, I will put a cam in it and really wake er up!

You wont regret it, and you will be able to carry a load better.
Im not worried about speed at all, just wanted to be able to carry a load better.

Do you have any experience with the BPS Q-Muffler? That's what I have been leaning towards because I really don't want anything super loud.

I don't.
But personally, I would just gut the stocker.
That's what I did, and it really isn't much louder than stock.
I did have a gutted stocker with a 2" outlet and it was a little louder.

Unless I missed it, what gen do you have? You need to put that out there so you can get a good comparison of what the outcome will be.

example.... I had a 07' NON cdi that when turned to a stage 2 (heads, cam, carb, exhaust) would spin 5000+ rpms and run 34. It had the older lower with gear oil.

If you take the same stage 2 engine but have a cdi engine and a gen 3 lower, you won't get near the speeds that I got, but you will be able to tote an elephant. But also be limited to 4700 with the coils.

So the more info you can give, the better understanding the guys will have to get you closer to what your looking for.

Gen III

look into the stainless works exhaust. their baffled so their not loud but have good results on the dyno and hold together great.

Realistically you'll be in the high twenties (28-30) but you'll be able to maintain close to that when loaded down with it modified.

Gonna be a turd

Yer breath stinks Jimmy

I'm interested in this topic as well because I'm looking to do the exact same....2007 non cdi.....gen 2. Just piggybacking not trying to hijack.

find a used 50-90hp outboard with a tiller handle. swapout motors when u don't need the mudmotor.
depending how much of a grenade u make, it may be a cheaper or more practical route.

good luck.

How many RPMS you spin now? I have always and will always recommend a set of heads first. YOu get a good valve job, good valves, better flow from port work, and some added compression from decking. That will be your best bang for your buck. It is the foundation for any other mods you do.

To be passed by a Gator Tail running on 1 cylinder turning a beat up GD 3 blade!!!

Just by adding a good set of heads you will be on the rev limiter or close to it. That's my suggestion.

Not always, but just throwing a little humor out there! I know my GTR is slow only does 31mph at 4300 just off the rev limiter.

Update:

Installed Boat Dr heads, mikuni carb and BPS Q-Muffler. Speeds are as follows:

Deep water empty: 29-30mph
Shallow water empty: 31mph is all I've seen thus far and that's in super shallow water

Deep water loaded: 27-28mph
Shallow water loaded: 28-29mph

All in all I'm very pleased with the results. I am currently running a stock 3 blade and will be making the change to a worked 2 blade here soon.

Outboards are not an option for some people. I could not go back to a stock Briggs ever. It's just flat out a turd when you out 3-4 ppl and gear in it.

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Just pulled the trigger on performance muffler carb and heads from boat doctor.

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